ULAANBAATAR: THE GATEWAY TO MONGOLIA

The capital of Mongolia has been undergoing a spurt of growth

Mongolia, with its wideopen grasslands, shifting deserts and snow-dusted hills, is one of the world’s least populated countries. The density here is 1.9 people per square kilometre, compared to India’s 455. Yet, if you were to visit its very congested and occasionally polluted capital Ulaanbaatar, you wouldn’t get that impression. UB, as it is known locally, has half the country’s 3 million people living within its administrative, business and residential zones, including the nomadic newcomers who live in their traditional movable, round felt ‘gers’ that sprawl into the adjacent rolling valleys.

The capital gained steam in the last decade, after the discovery of copper and gold deposits led many an international mining company to its doors. There’s a thriving market, too, for excellent quality cashmere fibre and clothes.

The mass arrival of nomads happened because of a local phenomenon called dzuds; livestock is the mainstay of the nomads, and there are currently 80 million domestic animals in the country. But every now and then, a summer drought results in meager grass for the goats, sheep, cattle, yaks, horses and camels, and they go into winter thinner than usual. Then, if the winter is excessively cold — sometimes touching -43 degrees Celsius — the already skinny animals don’t survive. They die en masse, and the nomads are forced to move to the capital, looking for an alternate livelihood and help from the government. In 2009-2010, for instance, a staggering 9.7 million animals perished.

Inevitably, UB gets woven into travellers’ plans. In my case, it was a couple of times: once between visiting the nomads of the vast steppe and flying far west to the Kazakh eagle hunters in the Altai Mountains, and again before flying home. The vastly entertaining Karolina, who looks after Panoramic Journeys, the company I travelled with, showed me around and helped me make the most of this valley city that basked in the lee of green felt mountains, with the Tuul River slicing through it.

DELIGHTFUL INSIGHTS

She whisked me to the Zanabazaar Museum of Fine Arts, where we saw sculpture, paintings and textiles from antiquity until now. The illustrations depicting humorous scenes from A Day in Mongolia were particularly enjoyable and gave me delightful insights into life on the steppe. The exhibits at the National Museum of Mongolian History throw light on Genghis Khan, the Mongol leader who unified Mongol tribes in the 12th century and led his barely trained, unlettered men on horseback to conquer a vast swathe of land from eastern China to the edge of Europe.

Out on the swarming streets, innumerable young people bustled about to work and school. Not surprisingly the median age of the nation is 27 years. Pine nut vendors sold fresh, crisp nuts from little stalls. Karolina pointed out the popular Korean wave that is influencing current fashion, music and personal styling trends. On our last evening, we headed to Tumen Ekh, a song and dance ensemble, to experience the spellbinding Mongolian deep throated Khoomi singing, to hear traditional horse-head fiddles being played and to watch some swirling, thumping, highoctane folk dances.

I do hope to return just to see the spectacular Naadam Festival held in July. During that time, wrestling matches, archery competitions and horse races are held in and around the capital.

Mongolia is a nation in flux. Someday the country’s truly vast, pristine, unpeopled and soul-searingly beautiful spaces might just prove far more valuable than coal or cashmere.

Geetika Jain

Best time to visit:

July to September. The spectacular Naadam Festival showcasing Mongolian wrestling, horse racing and archery is held in July.

(5-star) ShangriLa, (4-star) Tuushin Hotel or the affordable H9.

(Mongolian) Nomads, (Indian) Hazara, and (Chinese) Hutung in the Shangri la

Great quality, beautifully-crafted cashmere clothes are mustbuys. You can visit the showrooms Gobi, Goya, Elite and Yak House. Shangri La and Hunnu Malls (with dinosaur skeletons on display) are best for indoor shopping.

Stay at: Eat at: Shopping: Cultural immersion:

See the Tumen Ekh Ensemble, a one-hour performance showcasing traditional male Khoomi throat singing female longsongs, folk songs, shamanic dance, and a contortionist.

Museums to visit:

Zanabazaar Museum of Fine Arts and The National Museum of Mongolian History in Sukhbaatar Square

Day trips from UB:

Visit Hustai National Park 90 minutes from UB to see wild Przewalski’s horses, red deer, marmots, argali sheep, Mongolian gazelle, buzzards, kites and migratory birds. Gorkhi Terelj National Park is two hours drive from UB in the Khentii Mountains. It has a spectacular, spellbinding landscape.