LOOKING FOR THE MAHATMA…

…in the fashion industry, as we celebrate the Father of the Nation’s 150th birth anniversary and his approach towards the freedom fabric — khadi

Mahatma Gandhi was right when he called khadi ‘an art that saves life’. Today, too, the fabric is relevant and is being included in contemporary creations by various fashion houses and labels. So, if someone told you that khadi is passé, do tell them that it’s the warp and weft of our country, and it’s part of the present and future of fabrics. Be it fashion weeks or exhibitions, khadi is gradually making a strong and stylish statement on the runway. Fashion designer Gaurav Khanijo, who recently worked with the fabric for his collection Ek, says, “My intent is to represent khadi in its rightful place — as the fabric of the future, just as Gandhi envisioned.” Ahead of Gandhi Jayanti (October 2), we take a look at the freedom fabric which Mahatma Gandhi strongly believed in and which paved the part for Indian textiles globally.

THE FREEDOM FABRIC

Mahatma Gandhi was instrumental in reviving and propagating khadi as a true symbol of nationalism and non-violent rebellion against the British, and their imported goods. He recognised the value of khadi (handspun and handwoven) textile as a vital tool to provide self-reliance and livelihood at the grass root level. Post-independence, khadi was adopted by Indian politicians as an indicator of their alliance with Gandhian principles. “Over a period of time, the relationship has undergone many changes; yet there have been instances where design interventions will prove to be helpful in repositioning the brand khadi firmly on the Indian fashion system. Meanwhile, the world took notice of the iconic khadi fabric, its story and the trans seasonal qualities of the khadi fabric,” says fashion designer Vaibbhavi P,” adding, “With reference to the sustainability of fashion, it is important to delve upon empowering khadi. It’s time that the appreciation of the texture of khadi reaches out to the masses with the right informative visual communication, responsible packaging, trendy styling and genuine pride in wearing #Handmade in India via effective social media campaigns.”

PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK Upon Mahatma Gandhi’s return to India in 1915, he was deeply moved by the poverty, and so he adopted the scanty loin cloth, made of handspun khadi

n innovative fabric, khadi can be ombined with other fabrics to give it contemporary feel. The khadi and amdani combination featuring a triped shirt and unstructured jacket by Maku, is one such example of perfect blends this season.

PHOTO: SHASHI S KASHYAP/HT Khadi fabric is versatile due to low twist achieved by hand spinning; it provides warmth in winter and keeps the wearer cool in Summer.

According to Gaurav Khanijo, as versatile as the many facets of mother earth, khadi is a fabric that is completely sustainable and a lifestyle that can help us create a better future for generations to come. “Khadi still or is more relevant in today’s times. Handspun cotton/silk/wool is woven on handlooms which provides employment in rural India, sustains and retains the craft of India and is the A-grade quality of fabric which can be used globally in the fashion industry,” adds Khanijo

PHOTO: RAMOD THAKUR/HT This dress is made from khadi by Gundi Studios, as a homage to the Swadeshi movement. This promoted the hand-spinning and hand-weaving of cotton as a mean of self-determination in India

Fashion designer Pallavi Dhyani brought khadi to life with the colours such as tones of grey, blue and favourites like white, which were livened up with sudden bursts of fuchsia.