SPOT THE STRIPES
Pench National Park is the place to be to get up close and personal with big cats. Here’s a handy guide for first-time visitors
It’s 5pm on a hot and sultry afternoon. The jeep is parked along a dusty, muddy trail; the driver trying his best to ensure we have the best view of the incredible scene taking place in front of us. A tigress and her three cubs are splashing around in an artificial pond, much to the delight of their captive audience. They play wrestle, chase and tease one another, all under the watchful eye of their mother. The tigress indulges their antics, but as the sun begins to set on the horizon, she gets up to head home. Two cubs follow her almost immediately. Their feisty brother lingers by the pool. “He’s fearless,” the jeep driver informs. “He’s always walking on the trail alongside jeeps. The tourists love him,” he quips. Mum’s had enough. One low growl from her, and he runs along to join his sisters.
We’re on our first safari at Pench National Park, named after the river Pence that flows through it. It is also one of India’s most-visited tiger reserves, since big cat sightings are rather frequent here. It also happens to be the setting of renowned English Author Rudyard Kipling’s 1894 classic, The Jungle Book. Every year, thousands of wildlife enthusiasts flock to the national park for a glimpse of Raksha (the Indian wolf), Baloo (sloth bear) and of course, the menacing Shere Khan (Royal Bengal tiger).
TRIP ON THIS
Planning an outing to Pench completely different websites. A common mistake made is to book multiple safaris at different gates to increase the odds of spotting a tiger. But the distance between gates can vary from 2km to 80km. And if you factor in that these are forest roads and not national highways, just getting to the gate in time for a safari can turn into a nightmarish experience for wildlife enthusiasts.
Not that we are complaining, after an amazing experience in the very first safari. With the “tiger sighting” box ticked, it’s time to sit back and immerse oneself in the beauty of the sprawling park. The tiger reserve is home to several wildlife species besides the Bengal tiger. Morning and evening safaris in its many core and buffer zones could bring you face-to-face with jackals, wild dogs, wild boars, a sloth bear, the Indian leopard, fox, striped hyena, monkeys, gaur, barking deer and the Indian wolf, among others.
Bird lovers will not go home disappointed, too. The park is home to several migratory and resident species such as spotted dove, laughing doves, flame-backed woodpecker, whitethroated kingfisher, red-wattled lapwing, Oriental magpie robin, Asian pied starling, and more.
SIGHTS AND SOUNDS
Over the next two days, a variety of wildlife and birds are “oohed” and “aahed” over. While we missed out on spotting a leopard in Madhya Pradesh’s popular Touria zone (tourists in jeeps following us gleefully show us pictures of what we could have witnessed), driving through the old forest full of sal and ghost trees is therapy for the soul.
Our last safari is in Maharashtra’s Khursapur Zone, where we spotted the tigress and her cubs on the first day. A storm is brewing, and one can hear the thunder roll in the background. It starts to drizzle and a few jeeps begin to leave. “Let’s wait for some time,” the driver says. We curse silently, but our patience is rewarded. Just as the sun sets, a tiny dot can be seen walking towards the pond in front. The jungle comes alive. A monkey gives a call. Then a deer. Yes, it’s a tiger! The young male walks elegantly to the pond, ignoring the ruckus around him. He sips some water, cautiously watching the jeeps as we watch him. Once he’s had his fill, he lies down on the sandy bank, lazing in the cool breeze that has begun to blow. “Should we go?” asks the driver. “Five more minutes,” we say, hoping to capture this moment and add it to our memory forever.