DECODING THE DELICACIES OF DUSSEHRA
Fafda, channa jalebi, payasam, etc. make for a flavourful finale to the nine-day festival of Navratri
D ussehra is among the most celebrated festivals in India. Also called Vijayadashami, it falls on the tenth day of the festive season of Navratri, and is celebrated in different styles across the country, with one message at the core of it all — the victory of good over evil. And like most other festivals, festive delicacies play a major role in celebrations. These include crunchy fafda (Gujarat), sugar-dipped rasgulla and khoya-based sandesh (Bengal), moong usal (Maharashtra). In North India, jalebi, kheer and besan laddoo are part of festivities, while yereyappa and payasam are prepared in southern parts of India.
Celebrations in southern states also include temple visits, decking up of homes and purchase of new vehicles or electronics. “Popular dishes prepared during this festival include alugadde palya (mashed potato sabji served with dosa or poori), huli thovve (made with pumpkin, tamarind, toor dal and jaggery), baaledindina palya (banana stem sabji made with Bengal gram and spices) and the popular puliyogare (tamarind rice). Also, payasam is prepared in every household, each in its own style,” shares Ashok Bandaru, executive chef, Shangri-La Bengaluru.
On Vijayadashami, books and other items symbolic of knowledge and prosperity are placed in front of Goddess Saraswathi and taken back in a ceremony known as poojayeduppu in Tamil. “We make kids read at least one paragraph in each of their subjects. We make them practice singing or play an instrument, hoping that particular art will grow further. Among delicacies, sweet variations are far more. We prepare sakkare pongal, kesari bhath, puran poli/obattu and rice/semiya/ moong dal payasam at home,” says Arun Sundararaj, executive chef at Taj Mahal, New Delhi.
For Bengalis, Dussehra coincides with the last day of Durga Puja. “Shoshti, Shoptomi, Oshtomi, Nobomi and Dashami are the important days. Luchi, ghughni, aloor dom, mutton chop, kobiraji and macher chop are the ideal selections. Rasgulla and channa jalebi are the quintessential desserts. Bhoger khichuri, beguni/bhaja, cholar dal narkel diye is a meal that has nostalgia attached to it. There is an array of vegetarian food, too, such as potol er dolma, doi potol and mochar chop. During this festival, only yellow dal is used,” says Aditi Chatterjee, sous chef, WelcomHotel Sheraton, Delhi.
In Maharashtra, celebrations entail a selection of vegetarian delicacies offered to the Goddess. “The most popular traditional dishes are sabudana khichdi, moong usal, batata bhaji, kothimbir vadi, pohe, upma, sheera and pani puri. Also, Maharashtrian desserts such as puran poli, shrikhand, modak, shakkarpara and mango mastani are must haves. This dish, mango mastani, is named after the beautiful Mastani, the courtesan who stole Bajirao’s heart,” informs Probir, the sous chef at WelcomHeritage Tadoba Vanya Villas Resort and Spa, Chandrapur.
Furthermore, there is a custom in Maharashtra where small animals are made out of dough. “We make small animallike figures from wheat flour and burn them in the havankund. There is also dasmi, another dish prepared on the day. It is made of rice flour, peanut powder and other ingredients. They are basically rice pancakes that kick in nostalgia,” says M Kasture, executive chef, The Ashok Hotel, ITDC.
And in most parts of North India, the tenth day celebrations mark the end of the nine-day fasting period. “After fasting for nine days, a feast is in order! One of the desserts associated with this feast in the Capital is jalebi. For some reason, our elders used to get loads of sugarcane as well, which we used to chomp on for hours,” recalls chef
Tarun Sibal.
Paruppu (moong dal) payasam
Sago payasam
Rava kesari
Wash the roasted moong dal and rice in clean running water, and add to a pressure cooker. Add a cup of water or as needed in the cooker with a pinch of salt. Pressure cook for three to four whistles.
Turn off the gas and wait till the pressure releases completely. In the meantime, heat ghee in a wok, fry cashews and raisins, and keep aside.
In the same wok, heat the jaggery water till it comes to a boil. Strain using a sieve to remove impurities. Transfer the strained jaggery water back to the wok. Now, open the lid of the pressure cooker and add the cooked dal-rice mix to a bowl. Mash them well with the help of a potato masher.
Add the mashed mix to jaggery water and cook over low flame. Next, add milk, cardamom powder and fried cashews. Cover with a lid and continue to cook it for another 10-12 minutes over low flame. The mix will turn mushy and thick.
Stir well and turn off the gas. Add around 2tbsp of ghee and mix well.
Garnish with some more fried cashews, raisins and serve hot.
Recipe by chef Arun Sundararaj
Mango mastani topped with dry fruits
Kothimbir vadi