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FRENCH CUISINE: INDIAN GOURMAND’S NEWFOUND LOVE

French cuisine has found new fans in its transforme­d state which is less ‘fairytale’ and more relatable, enjoyable and fun

- Shara Ashraf

Afew years ago, French food in India either meant massively sauced steaks and blotchy macarons served by local cafes, or ostentatio­usly priced, strictly non-vegetarian food, served in celebrator­y restaurant­s. The cuisine has come a long way since then. There are serious connoisseu­rs of French cuisine, and restuarant­s have evolved to put together wholesome experience­s. Chefs are making persistent efforts to popularise French cuisine.

But making Indians fall in love with French food wasn’t easy. “India is not a breadeatin­g country, (at least leavened breads), and the same goes for cheese and wine. So, it took a while for French to become popular,” says chef Prem K Pogakula of The Imperial. Indians found French food too ‘cerebral and celebrator­y’, and therefore, intimidati­ng. “Complex presentati­ons, too much fanfare and high prices often prevented people from trying it. Limited knowledge of wines that pair with French food also became an obstacle,” says chef Bobby Jacob, The Lalit New Delhi.

The absence of fusion dishes also put off many. While Italian and Chinese cuisines had their ‘Indianised’ versions, fusion wasn’t a possibilit­y with French. “French cuisine is a form of art. An Indian spin would have made it lose its authentici­ty. Therefore, we tried spreading knowledge of French instead of attempting fusion,” says chef Jacob.

NO MORE FAIRYTALE

Chefs adopted an anti-elitist, informal approach. Myths that French food is about fatladen dishes and strange looking snails were debunked. “There’s nothing mind boggling about French. We often cook French at home unknowingl­y. When you make a steak with black pepper, it’s French. People are realising that French is one of the simplest cuisine in the world,” says Naina Du Bois Juzan, consultant, Le Bistro Du Parc. Simpler menus and precise translatio­ns have made the food relatable.

LIGHTER APPROACH

Inspired by global trends, chefs replaced heavily sauced dishes and overpoweri­ng marinades with refreshing, aesthetica­lly plated dishes. Old world preparatio­ns took as long as two days to prefect. Now the focus is on quick dishes. “Simple dishes such as a steak with salad, quiches made with leftover cheese, or fish in court boullion (short broth), served with a quick lemon pepper sauce are quite popular,” says Juzan.

GREEN OPTIONS

The presence of vegetarian options on the menu is also

 ??  ?? Tomato-mozzarella salad flavoured with herbs at Le Bistro Du Parc
Tomato-mozzarella salad flavoured with herbs at Le Bistro Du Parc

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