The multi-faceted hues of Jaisalmer
The ancient city of Jaisalmer is not only about forts and dunes; the city has much more to offer, including wondrous art and even some horror
History can be uplifting sometimes and melancholic at others, but never dreary. More so in a land like Rajasthan, which celebrates life and death alike. Jaisalmer and its vast expanse of yellow sand are but a few chapters of its history, some pages hidden, some visible.
The Jaisalmer fort or the Sonar Qila, with its yellow sandstone walls shines bright like gold in the sun and wears a comforting honey hue during sunset. Its royal palace and the delicate artistry can keep you hooked for hours.
THE DARK SIDE
However, your thoughts might change once you learn about the bloodstained history. These three-layered fort walls have seen innumerable soldiers die in a bid to scale them. Around 24,000 women are believed to have performed jauhar (an old Hindu custom of mass self-immolation by women) within the same walls after Alauddin Khilji captured the fort in the 13th century.
It’s admirable how this land moved on, not forgetting the past but yet not letting it cast a shadow over the future either.
REMAINS OF HISTORY
If the fort stands as a silent witness to the politics, deceit, and conspiracies, the ornate temple and havelis inside its walls showcase the true wealth of the kingdom.
Be it Patwon ki Haveli, Salim Singh ki Haveli, or the Nathmalji ki Haveli — carved tuskers, peacock-shaped brackets, miniature paintings, and mirror work, the blend of architecture is reminiscent of times when the king ruled the land but the merchants had their say.
The Jain temples are another example of this. Built in the famed Dilwara style dating back to the 12th and 15th centuries, these temples were constructed by the flourishing Jain business community.
THE CURSE OF KULDHARA
Around 20kms west of Jaisalmer lies Kuldhara, which is rated high among haunted places in India.
Legend has it that in the 18th century, invaders poisoned the water sources, forcing the residents to leave. According to another version, a prime minister of Jaisalmer, Diwan Salim Singh, threatened the community to marry the daughter of the village headman. To uphold their honour, the Paliwals in Kuldhara and other 84 villages abandoned their homes overnight. However, the place was cursed to never be habitable.
The curse seems to be still in effect as visitors tell eerie tales of being tapped on the shoulder but finding no one behind them and sudden changes in temperature.
Although Rajasthan might present some sorrowful stories, it makes sure you end your trip on a happy note. Take a ride in the desert to feel the air and sand on your face or just camp out under the stars, enjoying the folk culture or trying your hand at puppeteering.