Of architectural artistry
Bikaner’s exquisitely designed forts, palaces and temples make for a visual treat
Garima Verma
For many of us, Bikaner has been synonymous with the crispy and spicy bhujia that comes in handy during night studies or adds that punch to a bland meal. That is only till you find yourself in the arid presence of this former princely state. Then, you realise that its opulence packs more punch than the snack.
Less dominated by tourism, the dust swirling off its dunes, and the vibrancy of its people make you fall in love at first sight. The harmony of red stone and marble in its forts and palaces, wonderfully balanced with the slowly and noisily advancing life in the streets and the markets, gives you a taste of Arabian Nights. Junagarh Fort commands the prime spot in the whole setting the city has developed around it. The fort complex, full of magnificent palaces sitting handsomely amid planned courtyards and gardens, is a specimen of architectures merging to produce a masterpiece.
Karan Mahal, built by Karan Singh in 1680 to mark his victory over Mughal emperor Aurangzeb, is exquisite with filigreed windows, intricately-carved balconies and touches of Mughal architecture. The stained glass and mirrors set in beautiful patterns work in tandem with paints and paintings. Meandering through the long, maze-like corridors and stopping often to admire a marble-tiled floor here or an ornate wooden ceiling there, you wonder how tough it might have been for the rulers here to keep something so beautiful safe from their envious rivals.
Legend has it that the Rathore kings of Junagarh would be unconquerable whenever they entered a battle after receiving Nagnechi Ma’s blessings. Built on a high mound and boasting a splendid high roof, the temple — not very far from the Bikaner Junction — is again a mix of Dulmera red sandstone and white marble. It is, however, this temple at Deshnoke, some 30 km from Bikaner, that leaves you stunned and speechless for reasons that get all mixed up in your mind for a while. For this is a place where the divine, human, and creature all live together.
The 600-year-old temple is a beautiful structure made of stone and marbl It houses an id of Karni Mata, an incarnatio of Goddess Durga, and is famous for th kabas (rats) that roam freely within the temple precincts and enjoy a sacred status. While spotting a white rat is considered supremely fortunate, killing a rat here by mistake means you have to donate a similar sized and weighed one (behold!) in gold or silver. Surprisingly, the rats, despite open gates and big vacant spaces, never venture outside the temple and there has never been an outbreak of an epidemic.
Hardly a mile away is Nehriji temple, set in white marble. It is believed that Karni Mata used to meditate under this evergreen tree, Nehriji, which is almost 600years-old. It is said that she stuck a stick on the ground, sprinkled some curd on it and it became the tree.
Bikaner boasts of being the breeding ground for the best camels in the world, and is aptly called Camel Country, too. Devoid of the rush and crowd you would expect and find at the sands of Jaisalmer, the camel safaris here are a comparatively calmer, relaxed and a more personalised experience. With the desert having invoked the romance, you can either opt to stay the night in one of the huts or head back to the city for a romantic and royal dinner.
The former residence of the royal family of Bikaner and now a luxury heritage hotel, Laxmi Niwas Palace makes you also feel like a royal right from the moment you step in. You can indulge in an evening of entertainment and dining just like the erstwhile royals, and a lavish dinner thereafter, in an equally bespoke setting, will have you spoiled forever. Those creamy kebabs, laal maas, chicken in cashew nut gravy, gatte ki sabzi, kair sangri, papad ki sabzi, daalbaati-churma, baajre ki roti, missi roti, raita and rasgulla go far beyond just filling your tummy.