FABRIC OF FREEDOM GOES GLOBAL
On the 150th Gandhi Jayanti, we discuss how contemporary versions of the humble fabric — khadi — have become a favourite among the fashion forwards
Dim light peeps in through cracks of windowpanes, forming cascading shadows, as strands of fabric float around. The spinning wheel, loaded with cotton threads in spirals, rotates, churning out khadi. The handspun and handwoven fabric was Mahatma Gandhi’s sartorialchoiceashe supported homegrown products during the freedom struggle in India.
On the occasion of Gandhi Jayanti, we celebrate the fabric that stood for self-reliance during the independence movement.
Designers, today, have revived the fabric and taken it to the global stage, in terms of silhouettes and runways. Designers such as Anju Modi, Rohit Bal, Payal Jain, Payal Pratap Singh and Rajesh Pratap Singh, among many others, have been using khadi to design contemporary outfits such as skirts, bomber jackets and pantsuits. Designer Gaurang Shah infused khadi with jamdani, designer duo Abraham and Thakore added a touch of metallic to khadi, and Sabyasachi Mukherjee made it a part of the bridal canvas.
“Khadi has been popular among foreigners, who look to India for their textiles, but it has in recent times acquired a cult status. We are trying new and interesting ways to keep the tradition always in focus,” says designer Amit Vijaya from Amrich.
The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) has taken many initiatives to promote the fabric through viewings and shows. They have also taken khadi international through specially curated presentations at the United Nations in New York, which will soon be taken forward to neighbouring places. In collaboration with Ministry of Small and Medium Enterprises (MSME), Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) and Gujarat State Khadi and Village Industries Board, they have ventured out to give the fabric its place of pride.
Designers have replicated the same by taking khadi to cities such as Paris, Berlin and Jakarta, and have got an encouraging response. “During late 90s, khadi was non-existent in the world of fashion. I wanted to re-introduce it to Indians and to the world, and tell that this is part of our heritage. We have created 20 varied textures in weaving, more than 100 plus unusual colour combinations and about
300 design innovations using the age-old techniques that have been handed down through generations,” says designer Gaurang Shah.
Designer Charu Parashar says it’s an important step towards sustainability. “There has been a conscious effort to promote khadi and silk in the mainstream fashion. Also, the weavers are becoming a rare species. This art is dying, as the next generation is moving to urban cities in hope of a better job to sustain their families. So, we adopt the weavers and use khadi in our collections. Khadi centric designs create opportunity for them.”
In the last five years, khadi has come into the mainstream fashion segment. It has now broken the stereotypical image, and is being used in pret, occasion wear and couture lines. Not just designers but retail chains have also dedicated sale points when it comes to khadi. SUNIL SETHI CHAIRMAN, FDCI Indian craft and handloom talks very strongly about Indian culture and tradition. When we put handmade fabrics from India on the global ramp, we get a great response. The demand for khadi is growing globally, which is a heartening sign. ANEETH ARORA DESIGNER