A 200-year-old art form comes alive in Delhi

There’s no denying that a saree is a piece of art. And Baluchari sarees — made from the finest, locally cultivated mulberry silk — are some of the most unforgettable ones. Bringing this experience alive is an ongoing exhibition in the Capital, titled The Woven Art of Baluchar.

The show features rare Baluchari sarees from Murshidabad, Varanasi and Gujarat, collected by gallerist Siddhartha Tagore. The exhibition is dedicated to textile art historian, Jasleen Dhamija, whose favourites include the Balucharis from Murshidabad, especially the ones featuring the Kalkas (paisleys) — an intricate embossed interplay in shades of pink and purple, set off with natural malda shining like dull gold. “The evolution of Balucharis makes a fascinating story, an amazing repository of social history intermingling with aspects of art, economy, politics, culture and fashion,” adds Dhamija. The Baluchari weave has come a long way since its first era, featuring life of the nawabs, women smoking hookahs, and even officers of the East India Company. Now, the designs include glimpses from epics such as the Ramayana, Mahabharata, and even Odisha folk art. Tagore says, “Textiles are coming up in a big way now. Interestingly, the present generation is looking into textile art where Baluchari figures prominently.”

Curated by Puneet Kaushik and Gaurav Kumar, the exhibition displays India’s textile history. Kaushik adds, “Our country is one of the richest in its textile heritage and craft traditions. If we don’t create an awareness among youth, we’ll lose them forever. That would be tragic, because the woven art and crafts are a matter of national pride.”