THE DICTUM OF BECOMING A GLOBAL COUTURIER
A slew of new-age designers is representing India in international fashion weeks. Here’s how they win hearts of a global audience
The network develops over time, but standing your ground is the most important part. Having good PR is key — as are commitment, consistency and a fearless mindset.
DHRUV KAPOOR, Fashion designer
At the Paris Haute Couture Week Spring/Summer 2023, designers Rahul Mishra, Vaishali Shadangule and Gaurav Gupta showcased their stellar collections full of Indian textiles juxtaposed with modern silhouettes. While Mishra and Shadangule returned to the French capital, it was Gupta’s debut at the esteemed fashion extravaganza. Earlier in January, designer Dhruv Kapoor presented his collection featuring ribbed denims at the Milan Fashion Menswear Week 2023.
“More Indian designers are stepping out of the country now for added exposure. Today, international councils are more willing to curate global talent from around the world, too,” says Kapoor, when asked why more Indian designers are getting global recognition now vis-à-vis 10 years back.
Shadangule attributes this shift to multiple factors: “India has become a desired market; opening up to Indian designers automatically grabs the attention of the affluent market.
Also, workmanship, slow fashion and sustainability have put the country in the spotlight,” she elaborates.
These designers have not only put Indian textiles on the global ramp, but have also dressed some of the biggest Hollywood names for red carpet events. So, what does it take to become a global couturier?
Be unique
Mishra, the second Indian designer after Manish Arora to showcase at Paris Fashion Week in 2014, weighs in: “While it is important to remember your country’s cultural heritage, historical roots and traditional crafts, what truly makes one a global voice is their authenticity and uniqueness. One has to be their own person and their creativity has to reflect in their designs.”
Shadangule and Gupta agree that originality in one’s creations is important. “In this day and age, it takes being really original and groundbreaking with technique to showcase on a global platform. It is imperative to have a distinctive sense of style and school of thought as the world of couture has seen a lot,” says Gupta.
Crème — and crème de la crème
Shadangule puts emphasis on how a Paris Fashion Week differs from other platforms, essentially requiring a different skill set. “To be a global couturier, you need excellent skills and sensibilities, beyond international culture and boundaries. However, to be a global couturier at the Paris Haute Couture Week, creativity and design become very important, and so do innovation and sustainability,” she says.
Talking about Indian craftsmanship, Shadangule adds, “Craftsmanship is what we are known for, as a country. Lately, the world of fashion is undergoing a shift from fast and slow fashion to craftsmanship with social impact. Indian designers stand out due to these qualities.”
Perseverance and PR
Gupta, who has collaborated with celebs such as Megan Thee Stallion, Cardi B, Lizzo and Kylie Minogue adds one has to be patient. “It’s a matter of luck and perseverance. Not to forget red carpet dressing with global celebrities that uplifts the resonance of a brand in the couture space,” says Gupta.
Effective PR is crucial, feels Kapoor, who is known for his avant-garde Gen-Z style and was the first Indian to showcase at menswear runway show in the Italian fashion capital in 2022. “The network develops over time, but standing your ground is the most important part. Having good PR is key — as are commitment, consistency and a fearless mindset,” Kapoor concludes.
What makes one a global voice is authenticity and uniqueness. One has to be their own person. Their creativity has to reflect in their designs. RAHUL MISHRA,
Fashion designer
It is imperative to have a distinctive sense of style and school of thought as the world of couture has seen a lot. GAURAV GUPTA,
Fashion designer
A shift [is underway] from fast and slow fashion to craftsmanship with social impact. Indian designers stand out due to these qualities. VAISHALI SHADANGULE, Fashion designer