Red, Red Wine
OVER THE LAST 10- 15 YEARS A HANDFUL OF PRODUCERS HAVE TAKEN UP THE TASK OF SHOWCASING THE BLAUFRANKISCH REGION
Who would have thought that a country as famed for its white wines as Austria would be able to produce excellent, world- class, thoughtfullymade, classy reds? That is exactly what’s been happening for the last 20 years. From the late 80s, after a national wine- making scandal that essentially crippled the industry, winemakers starting playing with ‘ international’ grape varieties – mainly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. At most, they would blend in sty Laurent and Zweigelt ( Austria’s other two important red varieties) into what was essentially sold as an Austrian ‘ Bordeaux blend.’ Blaufränkisch initially only played a minor, supporting role, adding acidity and some peppery phenolics to the blend.
It is only in the last 10- 15 years that a handful of producers have taken up a mantle of showing the Blaufränkisch can truly produce Austria’s best red wine. From what I’ve tasted so far, I certainly agree with this idea. Roland Velich, Uwe Schiefer and Dorli Muhrvan der Niepoort, each in different appellations-- Mittelburgenland, Eisenberg and Carnuntum respectively-- embraced largely non- interventionist winemaking techniques, to produce wines of finesse and delicacy with a clearly defined origin. The best Blaufränkisch in Austria is grown in the South and East of the country – in the region of Burgenland ( in the Eisenberg appellation in particular where the soils are iron- rich) and in the tiny Carnuntum appellation in the Niederösterreich region, east of Vienna right on the border with Slovakia. While Blaufränkisch can be dense, its texture and acidity define its style, based on where it is grown.
One of the best Blaufränkisches I tasted when in Austria earlier this year was that of Muhr- van der Niepoort, simply called Carnuntum from 2008 ( the 2006 and 2009 were not bad either). The wine is made in conjunction with Dirk Niepoort, the Portugalbased winemaking legend of ‘ Douro Boys’ fame ( and arguably the best winemaker in Portugal). It was not surprising, therefore, that the delightful Muhr and Niepoort use similar techniques in making their Carnuntum as Niepoort uses in Portugal to make his wonderful red wines and Ports. This includes foottreading, as in the old days, in large open fermentation tanks, as well as the addition of vine stems to the vat of grapes being crushed. These techniques mean that the juice being extracted from the grapes comes out gently without any harsh phenolics, rough tannins or deep colour. The results are evident in the glass. What I tasted reminded me almost immediately of the style of good red Burgundy: light colour, medium body and aromatics. It is an incredibly fresh wine with really delicate floral aromas and hints of cherries. I tasted this wine with fresh seafood, steak tartare and other earthy dishes, and it went well with the range of dishes. A beautiful, gastronomic wine that has the potential to get even better over the next three to five years.