SCHOOL OF MAIER STUDIES
THE ELUSIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOR ITALIAN LUXURY MARQUE BOTTEGA VENETA, TALKS TO INDIA TODAY SPICE ON DESIGN AND DESIRABILITY
Discreet luxury is a by- word for luxury marque Bottega
IF I HAD TO DESCRIBE THE CORE SENSIBILITY OF BOTTEGA VENETA IN A WORD IT WOULD HAVE TO BE BE DISCREET LUXURY
ON MENSWEAR F/ W 2013…
We wanted to explore the iconic men’s suit and the formality and competence that fine tailoring conveys. No fuss, no gimmicks, just a richness that reflects the world we inhabit. The palette is deep and rich, comprising black, dark shades of blue, grey, plum, and touches of cool green and muted bronze. Subtle patterns appear throughout the collection in the form of print, overprint, and jacquard. The silhouette is very sharp and close to the body. As far as accessories go, the season’s new bags are clearly intended for work, with a formal attitude and an emphasis on functionality. Shoes are classic in concept but forward in execution. There are loafers, buckled boots, and lace- up ghillies; many constructed from intricate combinations of leather, crocodile, and suede. The ghillies offer the best look at one of the season’s most engaging accessories: the patterned and printed sock.
ON WOMENSWEAR F/ W 2013…
For women, we were interested in the challenge to explore a material that is not commonly used and make it into something that is actually quite appealing. The colour palette is dark and decisive including black, slate, smoke and pearl white and as if by accident is offset by a vibrant red, yellow and curry. The silhouette is very much about volume, with the emphasis placed carefully in certain areas to accentuate the shape of the body. Our aim was for the overall look to be transformative, without losing the form of the woman who’s wearing it. One collection builds on the previous and this is a natural evolution from last season. Bags for this season are smaller, with top handles, and framed many times over. Woollens are mixed with nappa leather; exotics are combined with raffia for unusual surface and effect. The shoes, inspired by a man’s loafer or lace up, cover the foot high and sport a thinner heel than last season. Jewellery consists of elaborated bronze chains and porcelain bisque medallions.
ON CREATIVE INSPIRATION...
In my designs, I am always working to make things seem lighter, simpler and less obvious; pieces that are beautiful from afar but so complex, they are best appreciated up close. It’s the ultimate private experience of extraordinary workmanship.
ON RETURN TO DISCRETION…
When I began at the brand, I wanted to offer luxury that was focused on the product itself, because I felt that was the one option not being offered. The make of the product identifies the brand, and I like to summon an unexpected and not- too- obvious eccentricity. Our goal is to offer exceptional products that enhance the personal style of our customers.
ON HIS FAVOURITE BOTTEGA VENETA PIECE THUS FAR…
I’m especially fond of the Cabat, perhaps because it was one of the first things I designed for Bottega Veneta. I wanted the bag to be unlined and look the same inside and out, in order to highlight the inherent beauty of the craftsmanship.
ON MAINTAINING BOTTEGA’S DESIRABILITY QUOTIENT…
We focus on contemporary design while maintaining the identity of the brand, which allows our brand to be both relevant and desirable. I respect the value of tradition while simultaneously encouraging innovation.
ON THE FUTURE OF DESIGN…
I’ve always said that Bottega Veneta grows by letting one thing lead to another. You will have to wait and see.
BRONZE VACHETTE CABAT
KARI SOFT WASHED FLANNEL DUCHESSE DRESS BRIQUE VERRE IRISE BROWN ZIRCON PORCELAIN BRONZE AYERS KNOT, NERO SUEDE PUMP ( EXTREME LEFT); MULTICOLOUR PATCHWORK WOOL CARDIGAN, NERO MERINO WOOL SWEATER,
NERO GRAIN DE POUDRE WOOL PANT, NERO CALF SUEDE SOFT CROCODILE ANKLE BOOT( LEFT); NERO CROCODILE BAGS ( ABOVE)