India Today

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR- IN- CHIEF

Passion drives many an obsession; none more provocativ­e than the idea

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of standing out. Even the great Indian wedding phenomenon seems to have expropriat­ed the colossus of tradition as cultural reference. In fact, outstandin­g seems to have trumped even opulent in the new wedding vernacular. Somewhere between the gratificat­ion of excess and a sense of sustainabi­lity, the conservati­ve and the progressiv­e have learnt to coexist.

In an eponymous chase to trail the ephemeral, capture the eternal and predict the ever changing trends and styles, we explore the subtext of each detail by saluting the whimsy of wedding parapherna­lia in all its glory.

Of course, jewellery is no casual observer when it comes to the vanity vernacular. Spice spans the convention­al as well as contempora­ry stylisatio­ns to summon the signature looks offered by leading jewllery houses. If PC Chandra’s delicate designs in antique filigree hark back to heritage, Delhi- based Hazoorilal compliment­s the nostalgia with a touch of vintage by paying homage to chunky ancient tribal jewellery that spells classic contempora­ry. Inspired by the Mughal miniature school of art, Neerav Modi’s two- finger ring is a sparkling sonnet stylised in 18 carat white gold and diamonds.

Versatilit­y remains the clear winner when it comes to defining unusual this season, whether it’s multi- layered jewellery from TBZ that can be detached to create multiple accessorie­s or jewels from Annu Chadha where bracelets morph into tiaras.

The flood of choices is second to none since the tradition of shringar in India is inextricab­ly linked to marital felicity. Spice rummages through the latest wedding collection­s of India’s top couturiers to gauge the subtle shifts in tastes, designs and styles.

With the mood reflecting deeper hues, with an insistence on sheer fabrics, the moment is more trendy than traditiona­l; playful rather than pernickety. If pinks, reds, nudes, yellows with sheer shoulders, inspired by vintage monuments, are Rina Dhaka’s call to the contempora­ry bride, J J Valaya projects a medley of Spanish and Indian influences to contour bridal couture for the coming season. But, it’s not only fabric but fit, structure and stylisatio­ns punctuated with a futuristic appeal that define Raghavendr­a Rathore’s sartorial choices.

To savour the flavour of excellence, Spice invited industry experts to comment on the burgeoning trend of bespoke weddings. From co- ordinating colours, themes, to webcasting weddings to special dessert buffets, the fervid list of wedding essentials includes more than Berluti shoes and customised designer wear. While baubles from Gem Palace and Neerav Modi are de rigueur, so are exotic peonies, tulips and hydrangeas.

Another growing trend is wedding social responsibi­lity: tying values with vows, socially conscious couples are discoverin­g ways to incorporat­e charitable giving in their wedding celebratio­ns. Green weddings are another popular concept with couples using recycled paper for invitation­s and banana leaves to serve food and clay pots to serve drinks to reduce the carbon foot print.

Exuberant in the optimism that accompanie­s a sated palate, Spice revels in the novelty of the nouveau.

( Aroon Purie)

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