Sugar Coated
WANT TO CREATE THE BEST DESSERTS? AUTHOR AND CHEF POOJA DHINGRA OFFERS INSIDER TIPS AND SOME EXPERT ADVICE
When I look back to the day I graduated from Le Cordon Bleu, Paris, it seems like I’ve been on the clichéd long journey, but also like I’ve been caught up in a whirlwind. From discovering baking at home as a little girl to turning out macarons and cupcakes for thousands, the ability to whisk flour, butter and sugar together has brought me much joy and learning.
I’ve been fascinated with baking for as long as I can remember. My first proper kitchen memory is from when I was seven years old. It was the day my aunt taught me how to make brownies. I was amazed that simple ingredients like eggs, butter, sugar and flour could create something so delicious and magical. As I grew older, I continued experimenting with desserts. I remember obsessively crushing biscuits and adding condensed milk and cocoa powder to them. I called it cocoa delight.
To me, baking is the only thing that makes perfect sense in a world that never is—or can, or should be—perfect.
THE RIGHT TECHNIQUES
Beating and whisking till light and fluffy Most recipes will call for this. This is a very important step in baking because it is at this stage that we incorporate air bubbles into our batter. Baking powder or soda can only enlarge existing air bubbles and doesn’t introduce new ones. Ideally, one should spend 2–3 minutes whisking the butter and sugar with an electric beater or 4–5 minutes if using a hand whisk to get the desired result.
Sifting Passing the flour through a sieve is a vital step. It helps aerate the flour and you are certain it doesn’t have any impurities. Baking powder and flour should always be sifted or whisked together because you want the baking powder to be evenly distributed in your cake for an even rise and don’t want a soapy clumpy chunk of baking powder in your mouth when you bite into a treat.
Folding This is a process we use to incorporate a lighter mixture into a denser one. Folding is gentler than mixing. Most recipes call for the flour to be folded into the batter. The things to remember while folding flour are: Mix in one direction. Use a spatula with a gentle hand. If you use a whisk and beat vigorously you will activate the gluten in the flour which will make the cake a lot denser.
Melting chocolate There are two ways you can do this. The chef at the chocolate shop I worked at used to tell us that ‘chocolate is allergic to water and gas’. He didn’t let us melt chocolate directly on the flame, because chocolate burns easily. So I use a double boiler or hot water bath, in which a bowl is placed on top of a pan of simmering water. The steam from the water helps melt the chocolate and there is no direct heat. This is a controlled method where you are certain the chocolate won’t burn. You could also melt chocolate in the microwave, by putting it in a microwave-safe bowl and taking it out and stirring it every 15–20 seconds until it is completely melted. Here the risks of burning are higher.
Lining or greasing a baking tin
My mother always greased her baking tins— it’s a good trick for home chefs. Greasing a tin involves running some soft butter all around the sides and the bottom and then dusting it with flour. At school we learnt how to line the tins using baking or parchment paper. With paper, you are certain your batter will not stick to the tin. It is easier to remove the baked goods from the tin and place them on a flat surface to cut. Butter paper or parchment paper does not need greasing.
To line a tin, measure out baking paper 2 inches bigger than the width of your tin. Cut a 2-inch slit at all the edges so you can easily fit it inside the tin.
BECOME A SUPER BAKER
Don’t keep opening the oven door! Opening it for 30 seconds can drop the temperature drastically. Adding flavour to the fat helps distribute it better. If a recipe calls for vanilla, add it to butter to get a more intense flavour. Roasting enhances the flavour of nuts. Use a clean bowl to beat egg whites. Any traces of yolk in the whites and you won’t be able to whisk them stiff. Wrapping tarts and cookie dough in plastic wrap and refrigerating it for a minimum of 2 hours helps moisture to distribute evenly. Store baking powder or soda in an airtight container in a dry place to keep it potent. Chocolate needs to be stored correctly. If it is kept in very hot temperatures for a long time, it blooms—fat and cocoa butter float to the top. Stir chocolate constantly while melting in order to keep the temperature even. Always read the recipe thoroughly before starting. Measure all your ingredients and lay them out before you. Once you’re a bit comfortable with a base recipe, try and experiment with flavours. And last, always, always, ALWAYS remember to have fun!