HOMME IMPROVEMENT
SANDRA CHOI ON JIMMY CHOO’S MEN’S COLLECTION
Masculine clothing is as much a declaration of community as it is of individuality. What you wear tells the world not just who you are, but what you’re part of; your tribe is the ultimate status symbol.
For Autumn/ Winter 2016, I hacked deep into the codes of masculine footwear, then spiked them with verve, colour, and dash that is attractive to the customer. The result is a collection built for subversive elegance, a foot-borne foundation from which any man can construct a new attitude whilst tipping his hat to the style of his forefathers.
Maybe it’s because I’m so influenced by all that’s ‘British’ that I’ve been thinking once again about the idea of establishment. From the upper classes to the street, via the military, of course, men have always travelled in packs, marking their memberships through their clothes and shoes and expressing themselves through eccentricity and decadence. That’s what we are hoping to recreate through this collection that is debuting in India.
INSPIRATION FOR COLLECTION
The mood of the Autum/ Winter 16 collection has a whole range of different references ranging from regimental to La Belle Époque. or what was dubbed the ‘beautiful age’ and refers to a period in history between the end of the Franco-Prussian War (1871) to the start of the First World War (1914). It provided me with the creative raw material to explore a sense of sensual friction. Tension and contrasts are at the heart of this collection, most particularly the idea of tough fused with soft. Inspiration included the hard lushness of masculine military regalia, the sensual rainbow palette of Art Nouveau, plus a touch of Edwardian flounce and aviatrix strength. The result is a collection that I
felt was full with assertive opulence: eclectic equipment for a modern being of many facets to run free in.
THE LURE OF VELVET
Velvet fabrications dominate currently. Fashion is constantly evolving and there is a return to opulent fashion in the coming season. Velvet fits in well with this trend. It has a depth and richness, and its texture gives a sense of fluidity when it catches the light, reflecting undulating curves on a flat surface. Velvet also makes any colour seem a notch deeper and more intense. We have also played with fur, feathers and hand appliqued paillettes sequins as shown on the Lucy ankle strap heeled pump and corresponding Lockett Petite bag.
MAKING OF THE COLLECTION
It is the same each season. It all starts with one idea, one image or reference that triggers the inspiration journey. I always create a physical mood board comprised of printed images alongside fabric and leather swatches. Then I work with my design team in London to translate the inspiration in to new silhouettes in the spirit of the Jimmy Choo personality. Our Italian factories are then briefed and we wait eagerly for the first prototypes. There is always a sense of excited anticipation when we receive those initial samples as we are anxious to see what has worked and what hasn’t.
EYE ON INDIA
We felt there was an appetite for the Jimmy Choo men’s collection in India. It is an important market for us and we wanted our Indian customers to experience the full world of Jimmy Choo. I think the men in India have a great sense of style and like to dress up and aren’t afraid to play with colour and print. The Jimmy Choo men’s collection caters to their tastes with playful reinterpretations of classics like the Foxley tassled style and the Sloane evening slipper. For day there are more laidback trainers in a range of fabrications and prints in the Grove and Portman low top style.