NEW STARS OF INDIAN FASHION

Indian fashion has arrived. New designers are decoding Indian fashion with their own set of values and vision which is not just restricted to handmade and heritage but also looks at using unconventional materials like silicon sheets and metallic yarns, motifs and patterns that have been part of their childhood stories, as well as coffee soaked shirts and tea stained tunics inspired by the street life of Benaras and offering breadth to womenswear. They are exploring alternative approaches in terms of functionality and composition, aesthetics and detail. They have made waves internationally with their sense of innovation at varied platforms. We look at five designers who are weaving a new tale of Indian fashion.

RIMZIM DADU, 30, DELHI

Breaking down unconventional materials and putting them back in new structures

USP

I began my journey in 2007. I studied at Pearl Academy of Fashion, New Delhi. I was born and brought up in Delhi. Making clothes came naturally to me as I spent a lot of time around fabric as my father’s garment factory was in the basement of our house. I’d come back from school everyday and play in the factory observing the artisans working, and the technical process of making clothes. It has been a really interesting journey as I was able to experiment with my ideas and a lot more acceptance came in with time. I use a lot of different varieties of materials from silicon sheets, metallic yarn, to paper and plastic, break them down and make them into wearable garments. Heritage is not only restricted to fabrics. It also involves other materials. My vision is minimal, underdressed and nonchalant.

Muse

The material itself. I love visiting hardware markets and using materials like fibre glass, acrylic and plastic. I like to do things with my hands. It is not difficult, it’s labour intensive. Handling the material is difficult. Sculpting it, stitching it and putting it together is more difficult than the concept itself. That’s what I did for the corded sari that actor Sonam Kapoor wore at Cannes this year. It created a lot of interest and I got a lot of responses of people for having cool options in Indian wear. Indian audiences are becoming more aware now as they are digitally connected. Now there is more acceptance in experimenting with a variety of materials. I never set out to innovate. I am very disconnected with what happens around fashion. I am a purist. It’s essential to keep your aesthetics clean and untouched.

Favourite Designers

In India, Abraham & Thakore for retaining a fresh aesthetic, Kallol Dutta for his mastery over pattern cutting, and Rajesh Pratap Singh for his interpretation of ideas. Internationally, Raf Simons’s idea of incorporating emotion in clothes and Nicolas Ghesquière’s play with unique materials and creating interesting shapes.

What’s Next?

Indian wear and menswear. I do handwoven with a variety of materials and not just fabrics. Handwoven can be futuristic and not just traditional. I want to get into home décor as my textures will be perfect. I also want to explore Indian wear further as people don’t have interesting options.

Price Range and Retail

`12,000-80,000, rimzimdadu.com, many multiple designer boutiques across India, the US, Middle East, Dubai, London, Sri Lanka.

MRINALINI GUPTA, 34, DELHI Stress-free fashion, relaxed layering and structures USP

I grew up all over the country, from Pathankot to Ooty and that’s why movement has been in my blood. Travelling changed my outlook and my sense of design and fashion. I studied at National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Kolkata. I was an underground person. Travelling grounded me and gave direction to my love for darkness. I showcased my collection at the Lakme Fashion Week this year inspired by colours of earth. My Benaras collection was inspired by the streets and not just the embellishments and brocades. When I got into fashion, I saw a lot of stress in the ideas and garments around me. I tried to relax the shapes. Your garments shouldn’t stress you out, highlighting your insecurities. I wanted to do dirty fashion. The collection is rustic and minimal and not rich and glamorous. I did homeless jackets, tea-stained tunics, loosely knotted kurtas and lungi shirts accessorised with belts and shrugs that reflect the streets of Benaras. Clothes shouldn’t be stronger than your personality. I am easily bored and restless and that makes me hunt for constant stimulus.

Muse

People, individuality, personal spontaneity has always been an influence. I love people who don’t follow fashion. The streets are a gallery of expression, shawls thrown sporadically, lungis hitched while working, a torn kurta and creased shirts. Travel, global people and their collection of personal favourites from all over the world, thrown together without a thought. It’s personal, international and inspirational. The two World Wars have also had an impact on my collection. My philosophy is to stick to no philosophy. The idea of throwing something on your body and making it work, bringing comfort to a look and keeping it simple is important. My favourite fabric right now is linen jersey. It’s flexible, super soft and falls beautifully. The versatility of the fabric attracted me. It’s calm in nature. The world is in a mood to reflect and rethink and that’s seeping into our dressing.

Favourite Designers

Yohji Yamamoto as his work completely reflects him, Rajesh Pratap Singh for his precision and how he dismisses excess and Issey Miyake’s sense of pure art.

What’s Next?

A collaborative collection with a very talented accessory designer for a winter festive collection. It explores the story of displacement and the crisis that has ensued from it. We’ve destroyed, stained and blotched textiles for this one. I have a storehouse of themes I want to explore in either shoots or on the runway. I want to explore the North-East in terms of aesthetic and motifs. I want to destroy the sense of perfection in fashion.

Price Range and Retail

`7,500-25,000, Ensemble, Collage, Creo and Aza in Delhi and Mumbai.