The Revivalist
Why Sanjay Garg’s new collection is inventive and exciting yet respectful of design tradition
WHAT’S NEW?
The designer experiments with embroidery for the first time using chikankari in a new way He wears open toed chappals, a shirt that takes pride in its creases (given that it is made of cotton) and an attitude that scorns designers who strut from one fashion week to another. Sanjay Garg, 37, and his brand, Raw Mango, like to give tradition a skip and look at design through a new periscope. Drawn as he is to simple motifs and a soaring colour palette, he has fashioned himself as an artist of sorts who is also a revivalist, lovingly bring the sari back in favour. He shares his design vision.
Draw of Celestial
“My new collection is called Cloud People and there is a celestial vibe to the collection and there is an angel motif which is found in the narrative of the textile in one corner. This messenger of god is found in almost all religions as it is known by different names and since it is more a mediator than anything else so is devoid of the trappings of religion.
Lure of Chikankari
“This is my first experiment with embroidery and I am using chikankari for the first time. I believe that handloom has been done to death and everything is polarised and directional and I wanted to do something different. Chikankari is beautiful and while the paisley motif usually dominates chikankari work I have used new motifs.”
Heart of the Fabric
“I travelled for six months to Lucknow and got inspired by the local weavers and their way of life. The work being done there is very complex and different from what we see in the city. Today you find more mixed chiffons and georgettes being used. It is very difficult to get weavers and embroiderers to return to cotton as the choice of fabric for chinkankari. I am using only cotton and we had to make this fine fabric which was woven in Bengal and then embroidered in Lucknow.”
Colours and Silhouettes
“While whites are always special, deep colours like maroon and indigo dominate my palette this year. I also have a number of whites, pale pinks and greens. Every yeat we create a story board and picked colours that work and tell a story. Silhouettes are masculine this year and styling reflects that as well.”
Next Stop
The Museum of Modern Art, New York has selected several of our pieces. Victoria & Albert Museum, London, has also showcased a collection so I am quite excited about going global