GREEN BEAUTIES
A guide to understanding your emeralds
If colour is the new black, exotic gemstones appear to be the new gold standard. From the exotic tsavorite, to the spinel, to Paraiba tourmalines and the tanzanite, jewellers can’t seem to get enough of the new kids on the block. And a brand like Gemfields is at the fore of bringing some of the finest emeralds to you. On a buying spree? Strike your own path, hold the emerald in your hand, see the colour on your skin, hold it against the light, look inside, find its unique fingerprint, and if it speaks to you, treasure it. Here are five things to bear in mind while buying a fine emerald.
Responsible mining
Beyond the romance, history and drama of cinematic deliberations, the harsh realities of gemstone mining has troubled imaginations and policymakers alike to coin a new term “responsible mining”. Originally created as a campaign slogan for miner’s rights and transparent supply lines in the seventies, the term has today transcended it’s parochial moorings to become not only an industry mantra but a demand from discerning consumers, conscious of the impact of their decisions. Gemfields, one of the largest suppliers of coloured gemstones, are the pioneers in this area. Through their partnership with the Zambian government, the company has developed the largest emerald mine globally. Along with their operations in Mozambique—responsible for supplying 70 per cent of the world’s rubies—and the Kariba amethyst mine, Gemfields has emerged as the leading supplier of responsibly-sourced coloured gemstones. “Consumers face visible and invisible costs. The price tag is clearly visible. But the underlying environmental and social costs are not. It is right that more is being done to highlight these to consumers, allowing more responsible choices to be made. It’s no good wearing a gorgeous gem when it’s origins are in tatters,” says Sean Gilbertson, CEO, Gemfields.
The Emerald Valuation Matrix
The four pillars of an emerald’s valuation matrix are colour, cut, clarity and size, with colour being the most important. For a good quality stone, the desired colour should be bluish-green to pure green, tone should be medium to medium-dark with a strong to vivid saturation. Since emeralds are soft, they contain fractures, which make them vulnerable to damage during manufacturing and setting. The emerald cut is the most popular since it allows minimal weight loss during manufacturing, and protects the corners. The best quality emeralds are usually facetted, with more included cuts as cabochon and lower grade carved. Finally, if you are looking to buy an investmentgrade emerald, the minimum size should be at least 3.00-carat. Size has a noteworthy impact on value, and a 3.00-carat. fine-quality emerald, while only thrice the weight, can be more than five times as valuable as a 1.00-carat.
The Emerald Fingerprint and Treatments
The eye-visible inclusions inside an emerald act as a fingerprint unique to each stone. You don’t need to be a gemologist to hold your emerald to the light and identify its distinctive design or ‘garden’. Unlike rubies or sapphires, emeralds are not heated but their fractures are filled. While multiple treatments