India Today

A Bengali Affair

Savour a slice of Bengal right in the heart of Chennai at Mackay's Garden, popularly known as mini Bengal.

- By Krithika Sukumar

At first glance, the busy lanes of Mackay’s Garden are like any other commercial hotspot in the city—overflowin­g with vegetable vendors, pharmacies and stores selling everything from bangles to fruit juice. Look closer and you will see that many have sign boards in an unusual font, an unfamiliar language—Bengali. Dig deeper and you will be privy to an industry that thrives on a floating population of Bengalis who come to the city to visit Apollo Hospitals on Greams road and other medical institutio­ns.

An Eastern Influx

Located in the heart of the city for over 30 years, Apollo Hospitals on Greams road has been a landmark in itself— more so after the late chief minister J Jayalalith­a breathed her last there. Mackay’s Garden, at a mere stone’s throw away, caters to lodging and other needs of these visitors. “We started in 1991 and our rooms are always full,” says TP Janakaran, whose brother started the TP Prabhakara­n Mansion, the oldest lodge in the area. The brothers who hail from Tuticorin owned a grocery store before they started the 18-room accommodat­ion.

Subtle Secrets

As you take a stroll down, despite its old associatio­n with Bengalis, there is little about Mackay’s garden that one might find jarring. Its secret lies in the subtlety and the distinct melodious sound of Bengali in the background. “There are a few Bengali eateries— but it’s the simple dal, vegetables and fish curry that people come here for. Almost all of our clients over the years have been from Bengal or other East Indian states,” says Janakaran.

A Thriving Industry

“Nearly 1,500 people work here. Each month, as many as 1,50,000 people come from Bengal, Assam and Tripura for the quality of treatment and some believe it is lucky. They believe in the doctors here," says Gautam Das who hails from Orissa and has been working in a restaurant here for the last 15 years. “The accommodat­ion is convenient and economical—suited to those visiting the hospitals,” adds Das. While you might stop by to breathe in a bit of Bengal and tuck into some luchi aloo, for those here, it is business as usual.

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