“Why mess with success?” There is comfort in tried and tested
designs and prints even though they seem formulaic after a point. While Indian designers like to play it safe, reluctant to step outside their comfort zone and experiment with what’s trending internationally, the influence of trend forecasters is stronger than ever before. Many trends go full circle and we see lots of old favourites making a comeback on runways this season. While global forecasting agencies pick a colour or colour palette for the season, Indian designers generally stick to what works for our seasons, but that too has seen a shift this year with pink in all its glory being splashed on runways on one end, and monochromes ruling the other end. Here are the top trends rocking runways this season.
For Men | East Meets West
Ace designers like Rajesh Pratap Singh who showcased a collection at Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2018 in Mumbai have come up with razor sharp designs that juxtapose Indian accents with western silhouettes. Modern suits, kurtas and coats made it to the runway in sorbet colours for men, reflecting this trend to the hilt. Textured surfaces in a variety of jacquards were paired with lean trousers while long jackets made Indian formal wear funkier. At Sadak Smart, a collection shown by Abraham & Thakore at the Amazon India Fashion Week, male models walked the ramp in black gabardine trench coats, black silk crepe shirts, embroidered gold churidars and cotton pants, and printed kurtas paired with gamchas. The collection, inspired by the streets of the capital, was a wonderful blend of east and west, much like the young, modern man today. “The Sadak Smart menswear collection was inspired by clothes worn by the men we see walking, working and cycling on the streets around us. Easy comfortable layers of cotton, a gamcha which serves to protect you from the heat, an uncontrived and practical mix of Indian and western silhouettes ranging from salwars and dhotis to kameez shirts and army surplus were the highlights.” David Abraham, Abraham & Thakore For Women | Jewellery as Embellishment
While sculptural shapes in garments have been in vogue for a while, accessories have now come into their own with earrings and other ornaments inspired by fine art and architecture. These pieces of jewellery are also finding themselves used as embellishments on clothes rather than just on the ears, neck or wrists. Trends include statement jewellery like big, bold earrings or a statement necklace worn with mismatched earrings, as well as ornaments on clothes. Contemporary jewellery with an underlying Indian aesthetic is also in vogue. “Head accessories are big this season as is layering in jewellery. Clothes are also being embellished with jewellery” Ambar Pariddi Sahai, Jewellery Designer
Unisex | Pink Rush
Brand Pero’s latest collection was showcased in a shiny, pink venue which was evocative of Barbie dolls and candy floss, with a grand piano and live cotton candy
stall completing the set. Models walked in shades of pink and coral and there was a pop of colour that defied older trends.
“Even more pinker” was how Arora described her collection this time as she infused fuchsia and orange into checks and embroideries. While she was inspired by memories of her candy-filled childhood, pink is a trend that has been hot on runways internationally for a while now.
Given that pink is a gender-loaded colour that has been associated with femininity since the 1970s, it is today seeing a revival with gender fluidity ruling the runways and men sporting pink with nonchalance. Top international brands like Gucci, Tom Ford, Fendi, Valentino and Comme des Garcons have made a splash with pink menswear and closer home, designers are embracing millennial pink.
Showcasing Scottish tartans hand woven in Kullu, Himachal Pradesh, Pero focused on pink in varying intensity. The message was clear; man or woman, be bold and only dismiss pink at your peril.
“The idea was to shock people. And in doing pink, I felt liberated. It was like breaking the rules with over the top use of the colour and this was my way of changing the dull, winter code.” Aneeth Arora, Pero