Hidden Treasures
The charm of Hyderabad's old city lies in the colourful chaos and vibrancy surrounding its majestic Charminar. Photographer Saurabh Chatterjee, who is passionate about capturing street life and monuments, holds weekend heritage walks in the old city, tracing a path from Salar Jung Museum to Khursheed Jah Baradari.
Haathi Darwaza On the way to Charminar from Salar Jung Museum is Haathi Darwaza, a yellow archway that was the original entrance to the Purani Haveli. This is where you can find a couple of shops that sell the traditional Hyderabadi munshi naans. “These squareshaped naans were once patronised by the royal kitchens of the Nizams and are still made following the original recipe,” says Chatterjee. Badshahi Ashurkhana Not too far away, opposite Madina Building, is the Badshahi Ashurkhana, one of the many ashurkhanas, or place of mourning, for Shia muslims during Moharram in Hyderabad. The Badshahi Ashurkhana was built by Qutb Shahis around the same time as the Charminar, in the late 1500s. The walls inside the main pavilion feature brilliantly-coloured mosaics with carvings. Khursheed Jah Baradari Beyond the Laad Bazaar after Charminar lies Khursheed Jah Baradari, a century-and-a-half year old palace from the Nizams’ times and home to the Paigah royals. It is in a dilapidated state due to years of neglect and abuse, but what remains of the building is beautiful with its imposing pillars and arched doorways.