HERITAGE PALATE
Ancient buildings with a tinge of Mughal architecture still stand tall along the winding lanes that lead to Kesar Dhaba in Amritsar, which shifted here from Pakistan after India’s independence. Youngsters in designer clothes and rickshaw-drivers stand shoulder to shoulder waiting for the grub to be dished out of massive brass pots.
With its sweetshops, kulcha hawkers and dhabas, Amritsar’s culinary heritage is legendary. But this weekend, it hosts legends from across the globe at the first annual World Heritage Cuisine Summit & Food Festival (October 12-14). Organised by chef Manjit Gill, chairman of the World Cultural Culinary Heritage Committee of the World Association of Chefs Societies, the location of the event at the historic Gobindgarh Fort makes its mission clear.
Hosted by the Indian Federation of Culinary Associations (IFCA), the event will celebrate traditional cuisine with live demonstrations, food tastings, presentations, panel discussions, master classes and Q&A sessions with renowned chefs from around the world. “The festival is an unprecedented opportunity to witness live demonstrations by renowned chefs from all over the world, and also to savour these delicacies through the many tasting counters,” says Gill, whose cooking philosophy is rooted in first mastering the traditions of one’s homeland.
Amritsar was the natural choice for the locale, he believes. “The fact that it is a heritage city and is known across the country for its diverse street food [means] no other city could have been a better choice for this event,” says Gill.
For the celebrated chef, the event is an important recognition of India’s back-alley masters. “The whole emphasis in hotel management schools is on learning western/ international food and hence the lack of opportunity to master regional/ local food,” says Gill. “It is sad to see that most institutions have made little or no effort to preserve our ageold methods. Why don’t we take pride in our cuisine?”
To ensure that happens, Gill is keen to see Indian cuisine in the list of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage. But that’s not the only message he wants to spread with the festival. He also wants to make it known around the world that Indian cooking rests on two pillars—wellness and sustainability.
“[Local cuisines] are easily digested, compatible with the body and environment. Not to forget, nutritious and healthy. We need more structured culinary teaching with textbooks on our cuisine philosophy, science, art, ingredients and their characteristics, terminology and diversity,” he says.
“IT’S SAD THAT MOST INSTITUTIONS HAVE MADE LITTLE OR NO EFFORT TO PRESERVE OUR AGE-OLD [CULINARY] METHODS” Manjit Gill