FREEWHEELING
An hour later, with both—motorcycle and rider—in one piece, and safely zipping down NH48 out of the NCR, I felt pretty smug. What kind of quest would it be, I asked myself—with the typical nonchalance that hindsight brings when things turn out well—without its share of travails? This was my first stab at Revenge Travel—a term being bandied about to describe reckless roving by people frustrated by the coronavirus lockdowns. Was I going to let a spot of unseasonal rain douse my enthusiastic ill-conceived plans? No way.
My way—not the highway
Expressways aren’t fun for motorcyclists, and it was only when I took the exit at Bhiwadi that leads to the town of Alwar, and began riding on the narrower, but infinitely more picturesque, state highways, that this ride finally became what I’d been hoping for: Fun. This would be an appropriate time to talk about the Pan America—HarleyDavidson’s first bonafide ADV—Adventure Motorcycle. Considering the long history of the brand, and exemplified by the fact that its name is synonymous with big American cruiser motorcycles; the Pan America is a paradigm shift for Harley Davidson. After that first trial by water, followed by three hours of riding through incessant rain, slush, on slippery and smooth tarmac, the Pan America made its point: calibre, not pedigree. It purred, or roared, along, depending on which riding mode (road, rain, off-road, or custom) it was engaged in with its big heart: the 1250 cc Revolution Max engine, pulsating through me like only V-Twins can. This motorcycle even has an electronic suspension that conveniently lowers as you pull to a halt. Incredulous? Doesn’t even begin to describe this new, believe it or not, Harley-Davidson.
Bird in hand and bush for company
My destination was the quieter, less visited, southern edge of the Sariska National Park, about 220 kilometres from the NCR. The route I had been advised to take goes past Alwar, and then circumvents the Sariska National Park via Rajgarh, to eventually reach Tehla Village. I didn’t heed the well-meaning advice, deciding instead to drive through the park, on the pretext of visiting a temple that is open to pilgrims on certain days. Please note: Do not repeat this mistake unless you’d like to stand in line for a couple of hours with Covid protocols thrown to the wind. Sariska Tiger Reserve has a happy lockdown story. In 2019, the ratio of male tigers to females had dropped to 1:8; not ideal odds for procreation (you’d think). And yet six cubs have been born in Sariska since 2020, of which four have definitely survived. I didn’t spot a tiger on the ride, only pilgrims and expectant herbivores. I was reminded of Paul Theroux’s observations about the apes of Gibraltar and the tourists on the island. No elaboration required here. Suffice to say, that the assortment of monkeys, langurs, and various antelope in attendance on the sides of the road look forward to this bi-weekly treat from the human visitors. Presumably the 21 tigers in the Park don’t have a sweet tooth, and aren’t attracted by fruity treats. Once upon a time the tiger corridor stretched from Sariska to Sawai Madhopur and Karauli—a range that’s now been claimed by farmland. Still, contrary to the short shrift most people give this sanctuary, Sariska is one of the largest and densest tiger reserves in the country. Complementing the expanse of the National Park that it shares a wall with, Sariska Manor, a luxury resort, spreads laterally over the rocky landscape. Very neo-colonial, awash in pastels, with sepia-tinted pictures on the walls of its roomy cottages, this is a slow-living kind of place. Its old-world charm harks back to a time when vacations were long, languorous affairs, bereft of television screens, and afternoons were devoted to siestas, unhurried high tea, and evening dips in the pool, sipping sundowners to seep it all in. It’s possible, I suppose, to land up at the resort and make a party of it, but, given its character and proximity to the park, this resort lends itself better to Vivaldi than EDM. Thankfully the other guests at the hotel appear to be so inclined. My day passes in a reverie of
HARLEY-DAVIDSON PAN AMERICA SPECIAL ENGINE 1250cc; 152 PS; 127 NM; PRICE `16.90 lac—`19.99 lac (ex-showroom Delhi)