A SWEET KICK
Radhika Khandelwal, chef-owner at Fig & Maple in Delhi and Goa, kept technique at the forefront when she designed her gin-based dish, a boozy take on an Eton mess-style pancake dessert.
“I put gin-soaked Eton’s mess pancakes on the Delhi menu for several reasons. First, we have over 76 gin infusions at the Fig bar to showcase the versatility of gin and be able to use hyper-seasonal ingredients by infusing them,” says Khandelwal. “Second, the botanexperience cals and the complexity of gin, with its notes of juniper, citrus, and various herbs, wonderfully complemented and elevated the sweetness of Eton mess’s meringue and cream, balancing it out while adding a refreshing contrast.” Veering away from contrast to complementary seems to be the mantra for ous chef Mozanne Karbhari at Mumbai’s ITC Grand Central in Parel. Her gin and tonic lemon tart is what she claims to be a celebration of a very ikely coupling. “By combining the fresh acidity of the lemon and the complex botanicals of gin, we have produced a dessert that dances over the tongue with each bite. The gin not only adds depth and richness to the custard, but it also imparts a delicate floral taste that enhances the whole experience,” says Karbhari, who adds gin twice in the making of the tart. Once when the lemon curd is made and the second time when the gin is drizzled on the top after the tart shell has been filled with the lemon curd (see recipe).
With gin being the flavour of the season, it is no great surprise that incorporating the taste of the spirit sans the alcoholic hit seems to be the mantra for a few, like artisanal chocolate brand Paul and Mike. Their gin and ginger chocolate bar begins with a base of 64% dark chocolate, offering a rich and deep cocoa
Make the pastry by creaming the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs and tonic water gradually together until fully incorporated. Add the flour and mix to make a smooth dough.
For the lemon curd, cook sugar, butter, yolks, and lemon juice together in a water bath. Let the lemon curd cook for about 15-20 minutes until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Take it off the heat and add gin. Line a flan mould with the pastry dough. Let it rest for 30 minutes.
Bake in a preheated oven at 165 degrees Celsius. Once it turns golden brown, take it out of the oven and let it cool completely.
Remove it from the flan mould and fill with the lemon curd. Before serving, top with candied lemon zest, and drizzle with some gin.
—Sous chef Mozanne Karbhari, ITC Grand Central, Mumbai
with hints of citrus and floral notes. What sets it apart is the infusion of juniper berry oil, which encapsulates the essence of gin without its alcohol content.
“This infusion lends a subtle yet distinct gin flavour that intertwines beautifully with the chocolate. To complement it, candied ginger is added, enhancing the overall flavour profile with a zesty and aromatic touch. The result is a chocolate bar that harmoniously balances the boldness of dark chocolate with the refreshing and citrusy tones of gin,” says chef Omkar Dabhane, the R&D head of the chocolate brand.
This omnipotence of gin can easily be seen as a paradigm shift in the way India is now looking at pairing its new favourite tipple. One that’s happily skipping off the bar counter and finding itself migrating to the sweet, savoury and even candy side of culinaria.