HEALING coastal nibbles
THE HEALTHY PROPERTIES OF LEAVES IN THE KANARA COAST CUISINE HAVE BEEN THERE FOR CENTURIES, AND CHEF MANJIT SINGH CELEBRATES THESE YESTER YEAR SECRETS...
The Kanara Coast is a region along the coast — from Mangalore to Karwar covering the interiors of Dak shin a Kannada, Udupi district and Uttara Kannada. This area is well- known for its seafood and unique variety of vegetarian food.
The communities that have a major presence here are the Gaud Saraswat Brahmin ( GSB), Saraswat Brahmins, Bunts, Navayathi Muslims, Halakki’s, and the Siddhi’s, among others. Each of these communities has their own distinct cuisine and dietary preferences.
The Dakshin Kannada region has specialties by the GSB community whose use of asafoetida in most food sets them apart from other communities. Their Manji Alepiao
Gassi ( pomfret ginger onion curry) is a popular home dish that goes best with rice.
Going north along the coast, Udupi is the region that gave birth to the famous “Udupi restaurants” the world over. This region is mainly vegetarian owing to its large population of Brahmins. They use Brahmi ( Indian pennywort leaves) to make a Tambuli ( buttermilk) that helps in enhancing memory and its called “Brahmi Tambuli”.
The Kanara region also has a very unique variant of the humble idli called Khotte ( similar to a dumpling), made of fermented rice batter that’s been poured into small containers made of jackfruit leaves or screw pine leaf, that’s stitched together with twigs and then steamed. This gives a unique flavour and aroma to the Khotte.
The Dasola Yelé Khotté ( hibiscus leaf Khotté) is an unusual variant with fresh green hibiscus leaves added to the batter which gives it a healing touch.
The region of Bhatkal is home to the Navayathi ( newly- arrived) Muslims, renowned for their shaiyya jhinga biryani ( vermicelli prawn biryani) — a unique delicate mix of rice vermicelli and fresh prawns cooked with a lot of care for special occasions.
The foodscape of Karnataka is vast and unique, and the best way to experience it is to travel and engage with locals and I am sure you will have many stories of your own to share with the world. — The writer is a consultant chef and founder of a traditional food restaurant Oota in Benglauru. His insta handle is www. instagram. com/ chefmanjit.