Spirit of Ramzan returns to Iraq’s ISIS- free Mosul

Mosul, Iraq: Under the cover of night in the Iraqi city of Mosul, Rayan and Ali break the silence by drumming to announce suhur, the pre- dawn breakfast during the holy month of Ramzan.

The Islamic State group which controlled the city for three years before its ouster last July had banned drumming, along with other Ramzan traditions that make up the festive spirit of the holy month.

But since this year’s Ramzan started in midMay, Rayan Khalidi and Ali Mahboub have been doing their nighttime rounds, donning traditional keffiyeh headscarves and jalabiya robes.

The Ramzan drummers, known as “messaharati”, are “part of the religious and social heritage of Mosul”, the now war- battered city which has stood for centuries as a trading and cultural hub of the Middle East, said 25- year- old Rayan.

But the jihadists of ISIS decreed that such drumming was a sin, under their rigid interpretation of Islam enforced by its own courts and henchmen.

Ironically, Mosul residents had a Ramzan much like any other in 2014, when it started just days after Islamic State had proclaimed its “caliphate” spanning tracts of Syria and Iraq.

Families descended on Mosul’s tree- dotted parks along river Tigris in the relative cool of dusk to share “iftar”, the meal that breaks the daytime fast.

All across town, men and women gathered in coffee shops and restaurants, many clutching nargileh water pipes or smoking cigarettes — that was before ISIS laid down the law segregating the sexes and banning smoking at the risk of corporal punishment.

Most of Mosul’s restaurants and open- air cafes then closed their doors. Ramzan

is a time for family reunions in Muslim countries, but in Mosul such events often only come about after several hours of shopping to collect the ingredients for the elaborate dishes for which the city is famed.

Under ISIS rule, “women did not have the right to go out, except in cases of extreme necessity, and even then a woman would have to be accompanied by a man and fully covered by a black veil”, said Nahed Abdullah, a taxi driver.

Hassan Abdelkarim, whose sister was killed when their home was bombed last year, said the jihadists had destroyed many of Mosul’s mosques.

“Now we have to pay attention to hear the call for prayers from distant minarets to break the fast.”

If it’s tricky to determine the precise time for breaking the fast, knowing when to start is impossible, according to Abdelkarim, who is unemployed and lives amid the rubble of Mosul’s devastated Old City.

“We don’t have electricity or mobile phones to know the exact time” when the sun rises and the daily fast starts, he said.

While families wait for the launch of the city’s reconstruction and assistance to help them get back on their feet, the “Moslawis” have revived another tradition: long tables set up on the streets to feed the poor.