The Asian Age

S’pore bid for UN street food honour sparks culinary clash

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Singapore, Aug. 30: Singapore's bid to get UN recognitio­n for its street food has sparked a crossborde­r culinary clash, with angry chefs in neighbouri­ng Malaysia pouring cold water on the idea.

The city- state is home to many open- air food courts where vendors, known as "hawkers", serve dishes such as chicken and rice, noodles and meat skewers at relatively cheap prices.

Some hawkers have even been awarded Michelin stars by the culinary bible, which has had a Singapore edition since 2016.

Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong announced last week that Singapore will nominate its hawker culture to Unesco's list of intangible cultural heritage, describing the citystate's food centres as "community dining rooms" which form part of the country's identity.

But the move sparked anger in Malaysia, whose citizens have long claimed their own street food — which shares many similariti­es with Singapore's — is far superior to anything in their tiny neighbour.

Malaysian celebrity chef Redzuawan Ismail, commonly ■ known as Chef Wan, told AFP he thought Singapore's UN bid was "rubbish".

"When you talk about hawkers, Singapore is not the only one to have hawker culture... Why ( do you) ■ need to go to UNESCO to patent? Is yours so special?" added the chef, who once appeared on a show with late American celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain.

Another well- known local chef, Ismail Ahmad, insisted that his country was a street food "paradise" and it should be Malaysia that was applying for UN recognitio­n.

"Even the Singaporea­n people come to Malaysia and enjoy our stalls," he said.

But Singaporea­ns have dismissed the anger in Malaysia, insisting a Unesco listing is about more than just food.

"It is about the street food culture heritage that bonds people together and is supported by the government and industry, because it is about the community," acclaimed Singaporea­n food critic K. F. Seetoh was quoted as saying in the city- state's New Paper newspaper.

"If you have it, flaunt it." The countries have had testy relations since Singapore became an independen­t state in 1965 after being ejected from a brief union with Malaysia, but rows about food tend to get particular­ly heated.

Singapore plans to submit its nomination to Unesco in March, and an announceme­nt on whether the bid has been successful is expected in 2020.

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