Sustainability, too good to be true?
Perhaps the most overrated words in fashion right now are ‘sustainability’ and ‘inclusivity’. And interestingly, to combine the two is proving to be a challenge for luxury brands and designers across the world
While every fashion brand is on a route to be sustainable to attract woke millennial consumers, one wonders if it is really possible for highend labels to accomplish that without diluting their brand value. Every brand understands that to be sustainable and inclusive at the same time is one of the toughest challenges for the business, and thanks to the dynamic social media culture and fluctuating economy, the stakes are high.
REINVENT OR PERISH
According to designer Charu Parashar, sustainability in fashion is here to stay although she believes it could very well be a mythical statement because there is nothing like ‘Sustainable-Luxe’. “The challenge for luxury brands today is to reinvent or perish,” she says. “Millennial consumption is influenced by brands’ commitment to social and environmental sustainability, especially the younger buyers who are concerned about social and environmental issues.”
Charu considers woke buyers the key drivers of changing behaviour/patterns. “They are quite aware of ethical ways of manufacturing and compliance with labour laws. They care about the carbon footprint of the product and its impact on climate change and do not follow trends blindly.
“By definition, sustainability is for something to endure the test of time and remain persistent. When we talk about luxury, it is about preserving art and respecting the environment at the same time. For instance, in the handloom and handicraft industry, products are sustainable and luxurious.”
RAGHURAM KUCHIBHATLA,
Hyderabad-based founder of Yes!poho
“THERE’S NOTHING LIKE ‘SUSTAINABLELUXE’. THE CHALLENGE FOR LUXURY BRANDS TODAY IS TO REINVENT. MILLENNIAL CONSUMPTION IS INFLUENCED BY BRANDS’ COMMITMENT TO SOCIAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY, ESPECIALLY THE YOUNGER BUYERS WHO ARE CONCERNED ABOUT SOCIAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES.”
— CHARU PARASHAR, Designer
It is exciting to create a sustainable and ethical fashion that appeals to the new generation, but it is not cheap. It is a way of life, and if the brand’s core values align with the sustainability goals, they outline the price clearly. Sustainable fashion is expensive and a luxury for most; brands promoting mass consumerism or fast fashion are inherently unsustainable,” Charu elaborates.
CHALLENGING BUT NOT IMPOSSIBLE
“We need to use our voice to educate and expose people to more such inclusive and sustainable practices. I strongly believe fashion needs to go back to its honest form and intention, creating designs with the end consumer in mind, less trenddriven, which often makes it disposable and creates wastes, less of excess, more classic and more timeless.”
— PRANAY BAIDYA, Designer
When talking about sustainability in fashion, we are talking about all the chemical-free, biodegradable, and environment-friendly products that don’t harm the environment. Hyderabad-based Raghuram Kuchibhatla, founder of Yes!poho believes that when the population is huge and the natural elements are in numbers, everyone can get a sustainable product. “By definition, sustainability is for something to endure the test of time and remain persistent. When we talk about luxury, it is about preserving art and respecting the environment at the same time,” Raghuram explains. “For instance, in the handloom and handicraft industry, products are sustainable and luxurious.
Elaborating further, he points out how handmade products are natural and more time-consuming. “So, being sustainable and inclusive in these superfast-changing trends is challenging. In India, if you are buying from weavers and cutting the middle man’s cost, the not-so-rich sections of our society can
afford it too,” he adds.
QUALITY OVER QUANTITY
Socially popular actors, designers, stylists and other influential personalities hold tremendous power to sway popular opinion
for their fashion inspiration and direction. According to designer Pranay Baidya, they have been indirect crusaders for the survival and resurgence of traditional art forms. “We need to use our voice to educate and expose people to more such inclusive and sustainable practices. I strongly believe fashion needs to go back to its honest form and intention, creating designs with the end consumer in mind, less trend-driven, which often makes it disposable and creates wastes, less of excess, more classic and more timeless,” adds Pranay. According to the designer, fostering crafts, regional handloom and local enterprise continues to be the most viable option for rejuvenating the regional and rural economy. “They are sustainable, the price points are usually affordable to many, and have a low carbon footprint. One ticks all boxes that are a prerequisite for an ethical trade paradigm, all the while strengthening rural hands that are the backbone of our industry,” Pranay points out.
TO BE OR NOT TO BE
Although luxury labels have always pitched themselves to be “exclusive”, they are now forced to re-think their strategies for business and sustenance of the brand. From ditching animal products like fur and leather to contributing to CSR activities and adopting eco-friendly practices, designers across the world are competing to be ethically luxurious. Designer Mithi Kalra highlights, “With the changing markets in recent times, brands now need to be sustainable. Consumers have become aware and exposure to online media and shopping has led to increased competition. Today, we have to provide the best to our clients not just in terms of product quality but also as the whole shopping and service experience once they step into our stores. The way Indian textiles are pitched globally has helped the industry grow and become more affordable for everyone. It will need more support from the government, consumers, and fashion pioneers to ensure fair wages for weavers and preserve our rich heritage of crafts.”