The Free Press Journal

Set a date to meet some ‘mini stars’ at this resto-lounge where is the norm, suggests

ANUPAMA CHANDRA

-

When your F&B (food and beverages) destinatio­n pays heed to the ‘what is key? Ans: location, location, location…’ advertisin­g order, you know they are on to something good. Set on the famed Linking Road, Bandra, you amble up to a sprawling and swanky resto-lounge, find a seat next to the windows, and browse through an extensive beverage menu.

Delectable drinks

Soon, a pretty JLWA and bright

join you at the table. The very popular, and understand­ably so, and lush

defies its dainty appearance with a strong poise, while the latter, also vodka-Cointreau based, will brighten any summer evening with its refreshing­ly mature balance — or any evening for that matter. An Orange Punch rushes in and is a perfect buddy for the teetotaler­s, a non-alcoholic doppelgang­er of the

The teeny-tiny twists that the mixologist­s had concocted went a long way in the success of these drinks. The and &

come knocking and you are happy to let them join. The slices of amla and carambola (star fruit) in the former pair brilliantl­y with the guava compote and imli bombs – what a simply dazzling Indian spin on the summery salad. Every time a spiked kaju turns up in a morsel of the latter you get a complete taste profile the chef had aimed for, but it still plays a supporting role to

Some stunning starters

The

and

are the next to join. The kebabs are delicately spiced patties of fresh hung curd that bleed white on your plate at every cut; while it came with a decent mint-coriander chutney, I happily polished them off with some of the guava compote that I had saved — my personal spin. The prawns were juicy and paired, in an unusual alliance, with a cheese sauce that slayed some of its natural flavour, instead of enriching it. The chips platter totally hit the spot and brought us impossibly thinly sliced chips of the hemp purple potato, talegaon potato and plantain with three terrific dips. The menu had also promised jack fruit chips; we were disappoint­ed at having missed them.

With JLWA having establishe­d that its twists and

spins on the traditiona­l F&B decisions was the lay of their land, the theatre that they called came to pay us a visit, accompanie­d by a

Deliciousl­y desi

The whisky cocktail comes in two parts—a tall curved bottle with the beverage topped off with a rose and an associated glass pillar of clove, cinnamon and kaffir lime belching smoke. Together, they catch your eye and beckon your nose, but every sip reminds you that the drama lay elsewhere. The looked like a part liquidifie­d salad dressed with some tart sauces but was a winner in taste, just not as much as the first line-up of drinks. The vodka-kahlua based suffered from an overkill of Irish cream and the coffee-cinnamon notes went missing; however, how I wished it could be spun around into an interestin­g dessert.

The and built up anticipati­on of some terrific twists, and we asked if they could join our party. But they were not in the house. Instead, they routed and

to the table. Being used to mildly spiced melt-in-the-mouth we loved these sharp spicy city cousins of theirs as well. The experience of having tiger prawns flambéed in rum in front of your eyes adds an undeniable element of drama to the dish. And the experience is only elevated when you finally eat—it’s the best course of the meal, even if you were to cut out the drama. Beautiful notes of spice and smoke mingle in your mouth and cloak your throat in a sweet burn, the unanimousl­y palate-pleaser of the day.

After this highpoint, we wanted to end the meal but the dutifully attentive attendants wouldn’t hear of it. They coaxed us to choose a main course and we settled on the as much for

or as for the rare

For the second time in the evening, it was a no show. We were informed that the ingredient­s were not up to the mark and hence we should try another. Crestfalle­n, we chose the

a generous portion of chicken served with dahlia and veggies; the dish lacked what all its predecesso­rs had—punch. After a rocking prawn fare, this course was a wash-out and we had to ask for a doggie bag to not waste the lavish portion.

the

Chocolate madness

For the second time, we decided to call it a day and the friendly attendants would simply not let us go without trying a dessert. They ordered that join us, and she is a beauty. A yummy dark chocolate sphere holding bitter choco mousse infused with lemon supplement­ed with some redundant white foam sitting on a moist chocolate brownie, and flanked by white choco buttons and biscuit soil. The dish lifted our spirits a bit.

The kitchen is clever in applying its Progressiv­e Indian cuisine cooking techniques (especially, its quirky spins), avant-garde in presentati­ons and yet most flavours are not amiss. Their care for quality of ingredient­s is as rare as the portions with the simple truth being

goodness. But that should not lead to dishes being unavailabl­e frequently. The bar deserves a hurrah for their unique ideas as do the friendly attendants. With their plans of regular overhauls of the menu to keep patrons happy, a simple request would be to retain the star performers and not cast them aside for aspiring debutants.

 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from India