Solo in Sikkim
YVETTE LEE rediscovers trust amidst the mountains
Ihave always had restless feet and the desire to see new sights and places. Being tired and a little disillusioned with city life and the stress that comes with it, this May I did something I have always wanted to do… Just backpack alone!!! No plan, no checklist and no friends… After convincing my rather stressed mother and on suggestions from my friend, Anand (another avid traveller), I decided to travel to Sikkim. One Saturday in March when researching about Sikkim, I came across a picture of Mt. Kanchenjunga and it was as if it was calling me. I booked my tickets that night.
The journey begins
Fast forwarding to May 19, 2018...After spending a lovely day with my bestie and her family in Delhi, I took a flight to Bagdogra, around 7 km from Siliguri. After staying the night at Siliguri, at school teacher, Ms. Joyti Sadiq’s I headed out for Gangtok early next morning. I took a sharing taxi from Siliguri, which dropped me to Gangtok at 10 am. From the taxi stand, a little nervous, I took a local taxi to my B&B – Bookman’s B&B. I took the number of the taxi guy, Om (my only acquaintance now in this new city) and told him that I would call for some local sightseeing.
After a little rest I walked down to MG Marg and after my first solo lunch, on an instinct (I had seen many more travel offices earlier while wandering) walked into Royal Sikkim Travel and Tours office and booked a 3 day-2 night trip to Lachen and Lachung, North Sikkim for the day-after. As most of Sikkim, especially, north Sikkim is a border area, the only way to travel is through a travel agency as you require permission from the army and tourism department.
I spent the evening and the whole of the next day in the company of Om, my driver who took me sightseeing around Gangtok. There are many monasteries in and around Gangtok to visit including Rumtek, Enchey and Gjunjang monastery. A must-visit attraction at Gangtok is the Namgyal Institute of Technology that gives you an easy and complete understanding of Buddhism and the history of Sikkim (I suggest you do this first). Some must-see points a few kilometres drive away from Gangtok is Ganesh Tok (from where you can see Mt. Kanchenjunga), Hanumank Tok and Tashi View point. Make sure you gorge on all authentic food – momos, thukpa and gundruk and my recommendation is the Taste of Tibet on MG Marg. (PS – I was still disappointed, because I had not yet seen Mt. Kanchenjunga.)
Off to the North
After two amazing and relaxing days in Gangtok, I headed to North Sikkim in a sharing taxi. The next three days turned out to be really hectic and included waking up early mornings, before light (mind you, light here is at 4am) but the sights and views you visit are well, worth it. From Lachen, I visited Gurudongmar Lake and Kala Patthar, both around 5-9 km away from the Chinese border. The next day from Lachung I visited Zero point, Yumthang Valley and Bhima sanctuary.
After my dreamlike trip to North Sikkim, I stayed for another day in Gangtok at Hotel Pandim, as you need a day’s rest after North Sikkim (I highly recommend this hotel as you can see Mt Kanchenjunga from the rooms). At Gangtok I headed back to my favourite tour guy and now also my man Friday, Migmar from Royal Sikkim Travel and tours to discuss my trip to Nathula Pass (Indo-Chinese border). After considerable help from army friends to get permission, the next day I hired a private taxi (it was expensive) and headed to Nathula Pass and then onwards to Zuluk, the old silk route. Even though, I hadn’t really planned to visit Zuluk, I am glad I did. It was the best part of my trip!
En route Zuluk I visited Changu Lake, Nathula Pass, Baba Harbhajan Singh Temple, Gnathang valley and I even saw the Sherathang market, an Indo-China market place for exchange of goods. I finally stayed in a small and beautiful homestay at Dhopitada, Lungtung right in the middle of the silk route. The village has just six people living in it and even though the temperature was a chilly 3-5 degrees and it was raining, the kind hearts of the owners, Mr. And Mrs Namgyal was all that I needed to feel safe, warm and secure.
The simplicity of the home-stay, a small room made of tin (just enough for maybe two people) made me realise that happiness lies in the little and simple things of life. (PS - Despite numerous attempts and early morning walks to view points, I still hadn’t seen Mt. Kanchenjunga.)
Mountains calling
After a lovely and cosy stay in Zuluk, I headed back to Gangtok to catch another sharing taxi to Pelling, at the foothills of Mt Kanchenjunga, West Sikkim. This was my last attempt to get a view of the mighty mountain that had called me to Sikkim. I reached Pelling in the evening after nearly seven hours of travel and checked into Hotel Khechuperi. All I wanted to do was take a shower, sleep and hope to see the peak. I woke up to rain and no sign of the peak. Nevertheless, I hired a taxi to take me sight-seeing. I visited Khecheopalri Lake, Pemayangtse Monastery and Sincher bridge. I then headed to Yuksom, the first capital of Sikkim and the place where the first Chogyal King of Sikkim was crowned. After a lazy day wandering around Yuksom, I headed back to Pelling, a little disappointed because my driver told me that Mt Kanchenjunga would most probably not be visible, because of the rains.
Back at the hotel, enjoying my cup of tea on my last evening in Sikkim, I was trying to take in all the beautiful sights and then out of nowhere, the skies cleared and there was Mt. Kanchenjunga in all its glory.
Sikkim had saved the best for the last, for me... It was indeed a calling!!! Travelling gives you time to think and teaches you so much. Travelling alone has reaffirmed my rather failing faith in humanity. Being a city girl I have trust issues, but the people in Sikkim have taught me to trust again... And realise that the world isn’t as scary as it seems... At least not yet!
Good place with good people
I have met some amazing people. My driver, Om in Gangtok, my first lesson in trust. The owners of all the places I was staying at, who made sure I was safe and comfortable. My man Friday, Migmar who listened to my crazy demands and arranged for vehicles despite my crazy bargaining attempts and schedules. All the drivers I travelled with who listened to me talk non-stop and answered all questions about life in Sikkim.
The lamas at the monasteries who I often chatted up with and who were kind enough to give me information on Buddhism and the monastery, over a cup of tea sometimes. The army officers and traffic police/volunteers who, when I have asked for directions have obliged and have further asked me who I am with; when I would tell them that I was travelling solo, they would give me an appreciative nod and smile. And the numerous people I have had fleeting chats with... you have all given me memories to last a lifetime.
Till I see you once again, Sikkim… keep warming and mending broken hearts!
“Never did the world make a queen of a girl who hides in houses and dreams without travelling.” Roman Payne, The Wanderess