Of vintage jewellery & precious gems!

‘Ode to Nature’ auction and preview showcases an impressive collection of jewellery that fulfils the senses. FRANCIS H DSA takes a look and is suitably impressed

“I will make you brooches and toys for your delight, Of birdsong at morning and Starshine at night,

I will make a palace fit for you and me,

Of green day’s in forests and Blue days at sea.”

Robert Louis Stevenson’s words so aptly fit this array of diamonds, gemstones, pearls, rubies encased in finely crafted gold! The great Dutch painter Vincent Van Gogh once said of diamonds, “For my part, I know nothing with any certainty but the sight of the stars makes me dream.” Stars turn to reality in these diamonds. There are 172 lots to be auctioned. Exquisite display, setting, with arty get up has been paid to every piece of jewellery from period setting to background sourcing, even the pricing is surprisingly affordable.

In Indian culture, fresh flowers, buds and garlands have been used as accessories by humans since ages. Flower beads, for instance, were worn on earlobes. However, due to their perishable nature, they were replicated using durable materials like stone and metal and, later, a cluster of gemstones. From the idea of a single flower placed on the earlobe comes the Hindi term karamphul (earflower), an important universal large, round metal flower-form with a central stud at the back equivalent to a flower stem. And there are pieces on display inspired by flowers.

The jewellery on display is from the provenances of private collections of former Indian princely families and the Mangaldas family and even of a late Indian film actress. For the affluent, collectors, admirers and lovers of fine jewellery, there are diamond bracelets, arm ornaments, Genset earrings, pendants, gold and diamond necklaces, lovebird gemset pendants, forehead ornaments, reversible Chandbali earrings, hairpins, set of coral ring and bracelets, jadau bracelet and necklace, jade plaques, turban ornaments, three tyre natural pearl necklace, diamond sunburst brooch, the like of which was once worn by Jackie Kennedy Onassis. There is also the gemset tiara in its original box. In recent years there has been a renewed interest in the tiara as a fashion or bridal accessory and has been the focal point of many designers’ works from Versace to Vivenne Westwood.

Architect and art connoisseur Savio Lobo present at the preview observes, “Gems and jewellery have always played a vital role in the enhancement of human endeavour and have had a tremendous impact on societies around the world. The collection on preview was exquisite in more aspects than one. It's assemblage from a plethora of sources ranging from a descendant of an illustrious family to a lady of noble descent — to encompassing all components of all aspects of fine living; all of this and more were the highlights of this extraordinary display. Personally, this was a very fulfilling experience for me as I got to see a vast collection in very close detail. The craftsmanship and delicateness of each and every piece, whether small or big was fabulous.”

Another collector and art critic Niyatee Shinde was equally impressed at the preview. “Some of the pieces were exquisite. And the good thing is that the pricing was nicely so. Am no expert on jewellery but I can say even the semi precious stones were of pristine quality,” Niyatee shares.

Get your jewellery fix here! When: On view till October 16 Online auction: October 15-16 Where: Saffronart, Ground Floor Industry Manor, Appasaheb Marathe Marg, Prabhadevi, Mumbai