Food for thought
Cafe Zubaan in Koramangala, Bengaluru, is more than a restaurant — it’s a community hub with delicious Lebanese food and lively conversations on social issues
Tucked away on a quiet bylane o the 80-foot Road in Koramangala, Bengaluru, Cafe Zubaan stands out from the surrounding din. Its whiteand-pastel green facade is calming. It is adorned with vibrant bursts of colour from overowing planters and cascading creepers that frame a simple sign. Stepping inside, the frenetic pace of the city seems to melt away. The air is lled with the lilting melody of a ghazal, instantly transporting us to a world of serenity.
Sunlight streams through tall windows, illuminating a minimalist space punctuated by splashes of colour. Ornate tiles dene the oor, while sturdy wooden tables and chairs stand ready for intimate conversations. A simple glass vase adorned with a bouquet of sunshine yellow and crisp white blooms (real, not plastic) sits on all the tables. As you unfold the menu, the inscription “Cafe Zubaan, Bengaluru” is followed by a tagline encapsulating the establishment’s essence: “an ode, a dream.”
The day’s heat was relentless, and we desperately needed something cool and refreshing to quench our thirst. Labeeb Usman and Jasna Moidu, the creators of Zubaan, suggested Saudi Champagne. This non-alcoholic drink was a feast for the eyes even before the rst sip. Sparkling golden liquid, made of 7Up or Sprite, formed the base.
Atop this bubbly canvas oated a vibrant island of seasonal fruits: watermelon chunks, their juicy redness, a burst of colour; crisp green apple slices adding a touch of tartness; juicy sweet orange segments providing pops of citrus; and a wedge of lemon, its vibrant yellow a nal ourish. Fresh mint leaves, their soothing green, a welcome contrast, not only added a touch of visual intrigue but hinted at the refreshing coolness to come.
As we sipped the Saudi champagne, we focused on the menu. Zubaan’s culinary focus is Lebanese cuisine, and the mezze platter was a natural starting point. We followed it up with succulent chunks of the Istanbul kebab and a plate of mix grill.
To complete our meal, we could not resist indulging in a cup of hot Kahwa, the cafe’s signature beverage. But it is not just this brew that is Zubaan’s signature — there are books, too. A carefully curated selection of books (about gender, caste, sex, etc) is neatly arranged on a small shelf on the wall. Labeeb and Jasna came up with a monthly lecture series called Kahwa Aur Kithabein (Brew and Books), wherein they call distinguished speakers to talk about socio-political topics. Some speakers include transgender activist Akkai Padmashali, journalist Dhanya Rajendran, actoractivist Chetan Ahimsa, and documentary lmmaker Jyoti Nisha.
Zubaan, in Urdu and Hindi, means tongue. It is a carefully thought-out name. For Labeeb and Jasna, the tongue is not just for tasting; it is also for talking about issues that concern society.
“We wanted a space that celebrated more than just food,” says Labeeb, “From the beginning, our focus has been on building community. It’s about connection, relationship-building, and fostering a space where people can unite. We thought intellectual sessions might be a good starting point.”
“I was set on creating something that revolved around books but also sparked conversation,” adds Jasna, “That was the core idea behind Kahwa Aur Kithabein. We both rmly believed in the power of community. It couldn’t be about us sitting there, acting like we have all the answers. It’s about the shared experience of reading, discussing, and learning together.”
The Kahwa Aur Kithabein sessions often evoked strong emotions. Labeeb describes the day Akkai visited Zubaan.
“She asked a simple question: ‘Can you all tell me your gender?’ And the response was eye-opening. Most people admitted they’d never truly explored their gender identity,” he recalls, “They were conditioned to think in terms of just men, women, or maybe transgender, but Akkai opened their eyes to the vast spectrum of possibilities. People started hesitantly identifying as ciswoman or cis-man. At the same time, some openly admitted it was the rst time they even considered the question. It resulted in a powerful conversation, reminding us all that nothing is xed — gender identity, like everything else, is a process of exploration and evolution.”
Running Cafe Zubaan has been a labour of love for Labeeb and Jasna, and it has not been without its challenges. Bengaluru’s booming restaurant scene and Zubaan’s slightly othe-beaten-path location make attracting customers a constant hurdle. Further complicating things is the unique atmosphere they’ve cultivated. While some customers appreciate the thought-provoking quotes and focus on conversation, others might nd it intimidating.
According to Jasna, the biggest challenge is striking a balance. They need to maintain the spirit of Zubaan, the community they are building, and the open discussions they host while ensuring the cafe’s nancial survival. This constant juggling act can be draining, especially in the early stages. The couple nds motivation in their core values and the community they have fostered.
Asked about their vision for Zubaan, Jasna responds, “A larger space, a way to reach more people, even outside Bangalore — that’s what we dream of. Because the change that happens within one person ripples outwards, affecting the entire system they’re a part of. They take those new ideas and experiences back, inuencing their families, friends, and communities.”