The Hindu (Mumbai)

An ode to the ocean

The eco-conscious clothing edit is inspired by sounds, textures and the movement of waterscape­s

- Amarjot Kaur amarjot.kaur@thehindu.co.in

For this capsule, while we were working on the moodboard, they [Asahi Kasei] shared their latest developmen­t of soil and marine biodegrada­ble yarn and everything just clicked

ANITA DONGRE

The metaphoric­al iterations of the colour blue may have attributed to its aesthetic value. No wonder, it has been the muse of many fashion designers — from Charles Lewis TiŠany’s trademark TiŠany blue and Yuima Nakazato’s 2022 collection Blue Season to Stella McCartney and Fendi taking to its pale shade during the Spring-Summer ‘24 runway shows. Closer home, couturier Anita Dongre is romancing the hue’s associatio­n with Nature. Its prominent proportion­s in her newly launched collection, titled Azure, are coupled with eco-conscious craftsmans­hip. “True to the inspiratio­n, Azure brings to life the colour spectrum of the ocean and the sky,” says Anita, who sourced Bemberg yarn exclusivel­y from Asahi Kasei, a multinatio­nal Japanese chemical company that specialise­s in chemicals and materials science, for the collection.

The range, which comprises a variety of kaftans, dresses, saris and skirt sets, was born from a dream.

“I woke up one morning, buzzing to come to work and sit with my team because I had this vivid dream involving the sounds, textures and movement of waterscape­s, which really inspired me. I wanted to encapsulat­e the ‹ow and ‹uidity of water with a quiet feminine sensuality,” says the designer.

She started working on the capsule around mid-August last year and states that the Mumbai monsoon added a lovely ambience while designing the collection.

“It took us about six months [to curate the edit] because we were quite particular about getting the right fabric that captured the ‹ow I imagined,” she adds. The motifs in the collection, she says, were designed with a watercolou­r aesthetic and translated on the garment using digital printing.

Beaming with Bemberg

Bemberg is a brand of cupro, which is regenerate­d cellulose

bre. Made from 100% cotton linter that is a pre-consumer material, Bemberg is a sustainabl­e material that is biodegrada­ble and compostabl­e. “The breeziness of the fabric was a perfect match. For this capsule, while we were working on the moodboard, they [Asahi Kasei] shared their latest developmen­t of soil and marine biodegrada­ble yarn and everything just clicked,” says Anita.

She shares that her brand started working with Bemberg about ve years ago. “It seemed like a natural partnershi­p since it represents our brand mission of being environmen­tally conscious. Over the years, we have consistent­ly used Bemberg yarn for many of our designs and we love how invested they are in creating sustainabl­e

bre. The Azure collection is made entirely out of Bemberg yarn,” she says.

Anita believes that Bemberg is uniquely suited for the tropical Indian climate, oŠering breathabil­ity and comfort in the sweltering heat, making it ideal for soaring temperatur­es and beach weddings. “Its soft, smooth texture adds a touch of luxury, appealing to brides or bridesmaid­s seeking elegant yet practical attire for destinatio­n weddings and fashion enthusiast­s who appreciate high-quality fabrics with a touch of luxury,” she adds.

The limited-edition, ready-to-wear Azure capsule, envisioned for summer soirees, ranges between ₹23,000 and ₹65,000 and is available across all of the designer’s stores in India as well as online.

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 ?? SPECIAL ARRANGEMEN­T ?? Models wearing the dress and sari in the Azure edit, which explores the colour spectrum of ocean and sky; fashion designer Anita Dongre; and a model displaying the brand’s red bag with hand-painted pichhwai on a vegan fabric base.
SPECIAL ARRANGEMEN­T Models wearing the dress and sari in the Azure edit, which explores the colour spectrum of ocean and sky; fashion designer Anita Dongre; and a model displaying the brand’s red bag with hand-painted pichhwai on a vegan fabric base.
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