UK architect rebuilds 5th century Vishnu temple in Nepal

DESTROYED IN 2015 EARTHQUAKE

LESS THAN two years after A 7.8 magnitude earthquake rocked Nepal, villagers in Changu Narayan are cleaning up their renowned temple,aworldheritagesite,themselves,andone of the world’s leading architects has taken on the recovery as his pet project. “I see now our world coming back alive,” said Gyan Bahadur Bhadal,61,oneofmanyvillagerswhoshareresponsibility for the temple’s upkeep.

Changu Narayan is believed to be the oldest Hindu place of worship in Nepal, it’s wooden walls intricately carved with hundreds of deities, perched atop a steep hill overlooking the Kathmandu Valley.

The5thcenturytempleisdedicatedtolord Vishnu, who locals say appeared there once. His image, in at least a dozen incarnations, is carved into struts that hold up the roof. Stone lions with eagle heads guard the doors. Inside haslongbeenamystery:onlypriestsenterthe two-tiered pagoda, and they don’t explore.

An April 2015 temblor that killed 9,000 people in Nepal also damaged details in Changu Narayan’s wood, stone and metal. A sharp aftershock one day later twisted the entire structure, knocking piles of bricks out of the walls, filling the courtyard.

Anish Bhatta’s family has been living and leading worship at the temple for 10 generations - some 325 years. After the earthquake, Anishdidtheunthinkable:hewentalltheway inside. “We saw things we never imagined,” he said. “Statues as big as me, swords, so many sculptures, gold plated with big gems.”

Today the temple is guarded by military police,andproppedupwithquestionabletemporary beams.

British architect John Sanday, who led the World Monuments Fund restoration of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument in the world, fell in love with the placedecadesago.aftertheearthquake,hedecided that of the 600 historical temples, monuments and palaces damaged by the earthquake in Nepal, this one would be his project.

“Sure, it’s peanuts, a little temple, so why is it so special?” said Sanday. “The detail. The grace. It’s one of the few World Heritage Sites that hasn’t been completely destroyed by development.” Among tourists and pilgrims, Changunarayan’sresidentspraythereatdusk, kneelatthedeities,bowtothegods,offeralms to the priests who stand duty at the door.

Three people died and 100 homes were damagedinchanguvillage,a30-minutedrive from downtown Kathmandu, during the earthquake.likefamiliesinthecity20kilometres away, the Changu community grieved, cried and cleaned up rubble. AP

AP John Sanday with Anish Bhatta at Changu Narayan temple in Nepal.