How to get the best out of overcrowded Venice in this busy carnival season
With the storied Venice Carnival set to open on 11 February, the city is likely to see hordes of tourists descend upon it and all its major attractions rendered nearly inaccessible. So visitors are hereby advised to go off the beaten track, writes Julia B
buying a travel card — a single vaporetto ride costs €7.50 and lasts 75 minutes, but a 48-hour card costs €30.
Start in Cannaregio, perhaps the least touristy of Venice’s six sestieri, at the 15th-century church of Madonna dell’Orto, better known as the church of Tintoretto, 10 of whose paintings are housed inside. From there, walk east along the Fondamenta Contarini, turning right across the bridge when it ends, and right again when you hit the next canal, the Rio della Sensa. At the end of Campo de l’Abazia, cross the bridge to your right where you’ll find the Scuola Grande della Misericordia, the least known of Venice’s scuole or confraternities.
From there weave left and left again to hit the lagoon once more. Walk east along Fondamente Nove, past the Gesuiti church with its marble-clad interior – look to your left as you walk to see the cemetery island of San Michele and Murano behind it. At the hospital turn right — the building is built around the Scuola Grande San Marco, whose original gilded coffered roof is worth a pit-stop.
A two-minute thread across bridges and through alleys takes you to Campo Santa Marina where at number 5908, Pasticceria Didovich has been serving Venetian and Austro-Hungarian cakes and snacks for over 40 years. Ask which primi are on offer today — the creamy pasta dishes are something to behold. Finish with a frittella, the traditional doughnuts served during Carnevale. Didovich’s are the best in the city.
Next to the Rialto bridge, a grand 16th-century trading hall reopened last October as Venice’s most swish department store, T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. Head straight to the top floor where the roof terrace offers arguably the best view of Venice: vaporettos, gondolas and private boats looping round the Grand Canal; a bird’s eye view of the newly refurbished Rialto; and the entire city skyline, from the domes of St Mark’s to the hulking Frari church, and the delicate Ca’ d’Oro palace to the slim bell tower of San Francesco delle Vigne church. On a clear day, you can see the Alps.
Cross the Rialto to wander around the market ( Campo della Pescheria, 30125) on the other side, which has been going strong for 700 years. The famous morning fish market will be over by this time of day, but the greengrocer stalls are piled high until nightfall.
From there, follow the signs to Frari, which take you to the San Polo neighbourhood. Here, on Calle dei Meloni, you’ll find Il Pavone, where Paolo Pelosin creates notebooks, journals, pencils and even wastepaper baskets from hand-marbled paper. Ask him how he does it and he’ll talk you through the process in his workshop out the back. From Il Pavone , either retrace your steps one block and then turn right to catch the vaporetto at San Silvestro, or continue down Calle dei Meloni (which takes on other names every few blocks) to reach San Tomà, where you can choose between a vaporetto or traghetto ( public gondola which crosses the Grand Canal). Either way, you’re getting off at Sant’Angelo.
A short walk away, near the Palazzo Fortuny gallery, is Teamo wine bar, an upmarket take on Venice’s traditional bacaro taverns. Stand at the bar with locals or sit on the comfy banquette – there’s a good selection of local wines and the service is always friendly. Say ciao to Honey, the resident dog.
Next to the Fenice opera house, Antico Martini is one of those rare grande dames that even locals love — come before a performance and you’ll find it buzzing. Established in 1720 as a café, everyone from Charlie Chaplin to Richard Burton has come for the top-notch seafood, posh cicchetti (sort of like Venetian tapas) and famous risottos. Its historic dining room, the Sala Cherubini, is in the process of being registered as a national historic monument.
Trentino- based pasticceria chain Majer has eight locations across Venice, but the Giudecca branch, which opened in December 2015, is the biggest, and doubles as a restaurant. Sit at one of the tables lined up on the waterside, overlooking the Zattere and St Mark’s in the distance – and have something sweet or one of the genovese focaccias stuffed with grilled vegetables.
Venice’s “parks” (like the Giardini and the tree-lined stretch of Sant’Elena) aren’t really worth writing home about, but walking along Giudecca is a far more Venetian experience. From Majer, head east (towards San Marco), straight along the waterfront. As well as the views of Zattere and the shimmering Giudecca Canal you’ll pass locals walking their dogs, spy rare gardens through gateways and over walls, and pass the Redentore church, designed by Palladio.
For the ultimate Venice private view, book a tour with the Wigwam Club Giardini Storici Venezia. Remember those gardens you caught glimpses of on Giudecca? Venice is full of them, and Mariagrazia Dammico and her team have access to over 80. Tell them what you like and they’ll tailormake a tour for you, usually by area. Local-heavy Cannaregio has some beautiful gardens, some of which — like the Casino degli Spiriti — have views across the lagoon and towards the Alps.
The Bauer hotels (of which there are three) aren’t just locally owned, but have deep links to the community (for example, their organic toiletries are made at the local women’s prison). Only one is open year-round: The Bauer, a 1940s Brutalist gem (or eyesore, depending on your attitude to modern architecture) adjoining a classical 18th-century Grand Canal palazzo. These used to be sister hotels, but were merged last year — rooms are in the modern building, suites in the old one. For a taste of old Venice — though with modern comforts — you can’t do better than the familyowned Hotel Flora. In a prime San Marco location with a rare garden, rooms are simple but beautifully styled with antiques, and staff know everything about their beloved city. THE INDEPENDENT