The Sunday Guardian

Jewellery makers search the past and present for themes

- SWATI SINGH

With changing preference­s of the average buyer, jewellery designers are also breaking away from the routine and are coming up with trendy designs that appeal to lovers of both contempora­ry and traditiona­l jewellery.

Traditiona­l pieces in uncut diamonds, kundan, filigree, enamel and engraved gold are high in demand. Themed jewellery designs, be it contempora­ry or convention­al, have also created a big market.

What follows is a curated list of trendy themed jewellery designs that will instantly take your style quotient up another notch.

Delhi-based jewellery designer Musskan Agarwaal is a renowned name in the industry and is best known for creating unique pieces and trends. She has a label named, “Kiwi by Musskan”. Agarwaal’s emphasis on design, and her ideas pertaining to youth, glamour and sophistica­tion, are clearly apparent in her collection­s. Recently she came up with a Tanjore collection, which has an Indian earthiness to it and portrays the connection between culture and religion. This collection gives you a feel of Tanjore painting that emerged from South India.

Talking to Guardian 20 about her recent collection, the designer says, “The one feature that sets my designs apart is the miniatures of the Tanjore paintings that are incorporat­ed in my neck pieces. Tanjore paintings have always been very contempora­ry. The kind of colours and stringing I am doing can be worn both with Indian and Westerns outfits. Painting on a small piece of stone is slightly tough since the workshop has to be very neat and integrated and the features of the God motives have to give a sharp look. Proper detailing of a particular motif requires a lot of skill and hard work as they are totally hand painted.”

Agarwaal can also engrave names in the pendant, rings, bracelets and neckpieces, and has launched a new line, which is all about customisin­g jewellery with names engraved.

Another jewellery designer, Shalini Bisht has recently launched her Autumn/Winter collection 2017, “The Samba Collection”, at the India Runway Week at DLF Place, Saket. The collection is all about vibrant colours and enduring stones. Each piece of the collection evokes wearable art while combining it with intricate craftsmans­hip. The collection is meticulous­ly handcrafte­d for today’s women, who are constantly trying to strike a balance between profession­al commitment­s, personal life and social presence.

Speaking about the collec- tion, Bisht said, “To express oneself, some write books, others take pictures and we design jewellery. I have a great fondness for the samba dance form. Even the word ‘samba’ evokes a sense of fun and vibrancy, which is why we’re so excited to incorporat­e the fabulous shade into our ‘Samba Collection’.”

One more thembased collection seems a perfect concoction of art. The House of Ganjam has successful­ly risen to the challenge of adorning women with works of art that delight and satisfy. The jewellery crafted by Ganjam has been desired and worn by many Maharajas and Maharanis of yesteryear­s and continues to appeal to the men and women of modern India, and countries beyond. A collection in 18kt pink, white and yellow gold, pastel shades of pink sapphires, yellow sapphires and rich shades of rubelites have been combined with rubelite and tourmaline beads to put together the stunning “Sakura” collection.

The collection is inspired by the Buddhist themes of mortality, mindfulnes­s and living in the present. Inspired by cherry blossom (a metaphor for human existence), Sakura reflects nature, calm, innocence and fragility.

In this collection, a flower’s journey of transforma­tion from a bud to a full blossom has been translated through the designs. Its very nature has been stylised into unique, contempora­ry yet classic designs of jewellery. These elements have been used to create volume and organic arrangemen­ts that reflect the true essence of the Sakura. Following the same trend, P.C. Jeweller came up with their all-new collection “Holyspin” for this festive and wedding season.It is inspired by Tibetan praying wheels. It is designed in such a way that it creates a link between tradition and the modern. She i b a Anand, President-Retail Operations, P.C. Jeweller talked about the collection and changing trends. She said, “We have come up with our second collection, Holyspin, inspired by Tibetan praying wheels. These designs are contempori­sed in a way that reconciles tradition with the latest trends.” Anand added, “There was a time when jewellery was limited for specific occasions, for festivals and for weddings. But with time the whole scene has changed. Now for each occasion no matter how small is a particular piece of jewellery— be it light or heavy, ancient or contempora­ry. Now we design jewellery keeping in mind the latest trends and requiremen­ts. Before curating the jewellery, we create the concept, idea or the theme, and then the design. So that every piece we create tells a story.”

The “Shvet Kamal Collection”, by Vishal Jewels, inspired by the White Lotus, is an exquisite accord of beauty and prosperity. The meenakari work adorns the earrings while the elite polki encircles it. These designs are a fine blend of the aesthetic beauty of lotus and the splendour of cultural heritage that speaks to the modern Indian woman. The collection is about celebratin­g womanhood.

Saurabh Maheshwari, coowner of Vishal Jewels, says “In the ‘Shvet Kamal Collection’, nature meets tradition and makes it a perfect mix of tranquilli­ty and peace, which is what the White Lotus is all about. The polki earrings with floral motif in meenakari work, portrays delicacy and strength, elegance and perfection, at the same time.”

Rahul Maheshwari of Vishal Jewels says “The ‘Shvet Kamal Collection’ has different types of polki diamond earrings with emerald beads, south sea pearls studded in 18kt gold and the beautiful meenakari work. The collection is inspired by the White Lotus, which envisages an aura of the pristine nature of the white lotus.”

The richly engraved and embossed temple jewellery is another trend that is now wildly popular. Besides, fusion jewellery using elements of temple designs is in high demand especially for wedding and engagement­s.

Designer Rashma Sud has engraved temple art in her designs and brings life to the jewellery pieces she creates. Her collection takes inspiratio­n from the myriad facets of life. While exploring the brightness of temples in India she came up with her collection known as “Aurum”, which means gold in Latin. With this collection, Sud attempts to revisit the history of India and give it all a modern spin. Thec collection is mainly focused on a traditiona­l South Indian look. Aurum will bring out the rebel in you while keeping the traditiona­l you intact.

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