Travel + Leisure - India & South Asia

A Country of Contrasts

Experience centuries-old history, explore hiking trails, and taste world-class cuisine in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg.

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WITH THE MULTITUDE of languages that echo through its streets, Luxembourg is a modern, vibrant city. It is also a place where history is very much a sensory experience. The remains of its old fortress, from which the country was once defended, are found everywhere. Its impenetrab­le defences gave it the moniker ‘Gibraltar of the North’. You can catch a view of its mighty walls from the leafy Grund district, while strolling along the Alzette, past the former Neumünster Abbey. From this vantage point, you can also look up at the impressive Bock cliffs, one of the most stunning UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the world.

HERITAGE HIGH

The structural witnesses of Luxembourg’s glorious past blend harmonious­ly with its contempora­ry cityscape. For example, you need to take a closer look to discover the fortress walls beneath the Villa Vauban (villavauba­n.lu). Built in the classical style in 1873, it is now an art museum surrounded by a magnificen­t park. A visit to the Dräi Eechelen Museum (m3e.public.lu), in the vicinity of the Mudam Contempora­ry

Art Museum (mudam.com), is a trip into both the past and present of the country. Opened in July 2012, in the fully restored 18th-century

Fort Thüngen, its permanent exhibition traces Luxembourg’s history from 1443 to 1903. Mudam is a modern and impressive edifice by star architect I M Pei, with exhibition rooms bathed in light and showcasing contempora­ry art.

Luxembourg’s multicultu­ral society is a true reflection of its diverse population, which boasts 170 different nationalit­ies. From the Grand-Ducal Palace to narrow cobbled streets, a panoramic glass lift, and streetside cafes, the city leads you to plenty of cultural and historic highlights, including the Casemates du Bock—the longest network of undergroun­d galleries in the world.

A bronze bust of Mahatma Gandhi in the Municipal Park was carved by the Indian modernist sculptor-painter-poet Amar Nath Sehgal and unveiled in 1973. Sehgal was invited by the country’s Prime Minister to set up his studio in Luxembourg,

where he lived for 24 years. Some of his large abstract sculptures are part of the collection in the Musée National d’Histoire et d’Art (mnha.lu).

With over 50 castles, Luxembourg is a fairy-tale destinatio­n. Restored to their former beauty, the castles are a mesmerisin­g way to explore the

Grand Duchy’s history. In the north, you’ll find the Vianden Castle (castle-vianden.lu), one of Europe’s most valued fortificat­ions. The Beaufort Castle (beaufortca­stles.com) in the Mullerthal region; the Clervaux Castle (steichenco­llections.lu), housing the world-renowned The Family of Man exhibition; and the UNESCO World Heritage fortificat­ions in the capital are a few of the many must-see remnants of Luxembourg’s illustriou­s past.

Luxembourg has one of the densest certified hiking networks in Europe, laid out in an array of landscapes—enchanting woods, glistening lakes, picturesqu­e villages, and mysterious ruins. Whether you are a hiker seeking new challenges or a nature lover looking for tranquilli­ty and fresh air, you’re sure to find your heart’s desire here.

One of the Grand Duchy’s most popular hiking regions is Mullerthal, also called ‘Little Switzerlan­d’ because of its many rock formations. The Escaparden­ne Lee Trail in the lustrous Ardennes region follows the course of the River Sûre, offering magnificen­t views and taking you across the border to Belgium. The NaturWande­rPark delux (naturwande­rpark.eu) and its nine crossborde­r trails take you to Germany and further along the River Our. Just as memorable are the three circular hiking paths, Traumschle­ifen, in the Moselle region—especially if you combine your trip with visits to a few wine cellars.

Life is too short to drink bad wine and eat without pleasure— and you’ll do neither in Luxembourg. The Celts, Gauls, and Romans all cultivated vines in the valley of the River Moselle, and the know-how has been handed down over the centuries. The Grand Duchy’s renowned crémant repeatedly wins awards in internatio­nal competitio­ns—Luxembourg is the only country outside France entitled to use the term crémant—and its wines naturally follow suit. To enjoy all this bottled poetry, pair it with an outstandin­g meal in one of the many eateries.

Michelin-star restaurant La Distilleri­e, located in the picturesqu­e castle of Bourglinst­er (bourglinst­er.lu), which offers a stunning view of the wooded area, is among the best in Luxembourg. It was recently voted the third best vegetarian restaurant in the world.

Wine lovers must head to the valley of the Moselle, named after the eponymous river. It is famous for its steep hills and vineyards, and is the birthplace of Luxembourg wines, mostly white varieties such as Riesling, Auxerrois, and Pinot Gris.

Getting around in Luxembourg is easy, sustainabl­e, and accessible to all, and passengers no longer need a ticket to travel by rail, bus, or tram. There are hiking and biking paths from one station to another, on decommissi­oned railway lines, across bridges, through tunnels, and to former rail stations that have been converted into restaurant­s. Additional­ly, purchase of a one-, two-, or three-day card gives you free admission to more than 60 museums and tourist attraction­s. visitluxem­bourg.com

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River Alzette, as seen from the Chemin de la Corniche; the Bourglinst­er Castle now hosts events and parties; the Mullerthal Trail is a popular 112-km hiking trail.
From top: The district of Grund and the River Alzette, as seen from the Chemin de la Corniche; the Bourglinst­er Castle now hosts events and parties; the Mullerthal Trail is a popular 112-km hiking trail.
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 ??  ?? Clockwise: The Family of Man exhibition in the Clervaux Castle comprises 503 photograph­s by 273 artists from 68 countries; the Vianden Castle was built between the 11th and 14th centuries; the Grand Ducal Palace is the official residence of the Head of State since 1890.
Clockwise: The Family of Man exhibition in the Clervaux Castle comprises 503 photograph­s by 273 artists from 68 countries; the Vianden Castle was built between the 11th and 14th centuries; the Grand Ducal Palace is the official residence of the Head of State since 1890.

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