“The ar­rival of new part­ners brought the to­tal num­ber of ex­hibitors to 30, which was truly a record since the sa­lon was first launched in 1991”

DA MAN - Caliber - - FAIR -

new RM 50-03 Tour­bil­lon Split Sec­onds Chrono­graph Ul­tra­light McLaren F1 from Richard Mille. Pro­duced in col­lab­o­ra­tion with the McLaren-Honda F1 rac­ing team, the RM 50-03 is the world’s light­est split-sec­onds tour­bil­lon chrono­graph. The watch makes use of a nano­ma­te­rial called Graph TPT that is fur­ther im­proved by in­jec­tions of graphene, mak­ing it six times lighter than steel and 200 times stronger. The re­sult? In­clud­ing the strap, RM 50-03 McLaren F1 weighs less than 40 grams.

Next is the black ce­ramic for Aude­mars Piguet’s Royal Oak Per­pet­ual Cal­en­dar. A chal­leng­ing to mas­ter but com­pletely scratch-re­sis­tant, black ce­ramic with­stands high tem­per­a­tures and ther­mal shocks, and is con­se­quently ex­tremely re­sis­tant to age­ing. Nu­mer­ous op­er­a­tions de­mand­ing ex­treme pa­tience and skill are re­quired to achieve a uni­form, com­pact and ul­tra-hard ma­te­rial that can then be ma­chined and hand-fin­ished. This Royal Oak Per­pet­ual Cal­en­dar fea­tures day, date, month, astro­nom­i­cal moon and week of the year. The leap year in­di­ca­tion— pi­o­neered by Aude­mars Piguet in 1955—is also fea­tured on the “Grande Tapis­serie” dec­o­rated dial.

Other maisons, mean­while, were seen try­ing to cre­ate much more com­pli­cated watches. For in­stance, fol­low­ing up last year’s achieve­ment of the most com­pli­cated pocket watch ever cre­ated, Vacheron Cons­tantin re­leased their most com­pli­cated wrist­watch by far. Named the Vacheron Cons­tantin Les Cabinotiers Ce­les­tia Astro­nom­i­cal Grand Com­pli­ca­tion 3600, this one-of-a-kind watch is one of the world’s most com­pli­cated wrist­watches with 23 mainly astro­nom­i­cal com­pli­ca­tions. This im­pres­sive feat of minia­tur­iza­tion fea­tures a com­bined dis­play of civil, so­lar and side­real times, each with its own gear train. Its new fully in­te­grated cal­iber is a pin­na­cle of tech­ni­cal so­phis­ti­ca­tion, fea­tur­ing a to­tal of 514 com­po­nents in a case that is 8.7mm thick.

An­other demon­stra­tion of tech­ni­cal com­pli­ca­tion comes in the form of A. Lange & Söhne’s Tour­bo­graph Per­pet­ual Pour Le Mérite. The fifth mas­ter­piece in A. Lange & Söhne’s “Pour le Mérite” se­ries com­bines the fusée­and-chain trans­mis­sion with a tour­bil­lon, a rat­tra­pante chrono­graph and a per­pet­ual cal­en­dar. The com­bi­na­tion of th­ese five com­pli­ca­tions makes the Tour­bo­graph Per­pet­ual “Pour le Mérite”a peer­less time­piece.

Fur­ther­more, SIHH 2017 also saw some fa­vorites mak­ing their come­backs. Like Pan­thère de Cartier, one of the most distinc­tive Cartier de­signs, which is as much a watch as it is also a beau­ti­ful piece of jew­elry. Cre­ated in the 1980s and more con­tem­po­rary than ever, it is a true style icon for women who never go un­no­ticed.

Then there’s the new TimeWalker col­lec­tion, which re­calls the golden era of vin­tage rac­ing. Min­erva, now the Mont­blanc Man­u­fac­ture, was one of the se­lect few to set the pace with ground­break­ing pro­fes­sional chrono­graphs. The chrono­graph, of course, has al­ways been an icon of fair play and sports­man­ship, fu­elling both ri­valry and am­bi­tion. Min­erva’s in­spir­ing time­pieces wit­nessed some of the great­est mo­ments in mo­tor­sport his­tory, embodying the rac­ing spirit in an age when le­gends were still be­ing made. The TimeWalker con­tin­ues this le­gacy.

Last but not least, IWC Schaffhausen re­vis­its its iconic de­sign from the 1980s and presents the 2017 Da Vinci col­lec­tion, once again with its clas­sic round case. The Da

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