DA MAN - Caliber

“The arrival of new partners brought the total number of exhibitors to 30, which was truly a record since the salon was first launched in 1991”

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new RM 50-03 Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograp­h Ultralight McLaren F1 from Richard Mille. Produced in collaborat­ion with the McLaren-Honda F1 racing team, the RM 50-03 is the world’s lightest split-seconds tourbillon chronograp­h. The watch makes use of a nanomateri­al called Graph TPT that is further improved by injections of graphene, making it six times lighter than steel and 200 times stronger. The result? Including the strap, RM 50-03 McLaren F1 weighs less than 40 grams.

Next is the black ceramic for Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. A challengin­g to master but completely scratch-resistant, black ceramic withstands high temperatur­es and thermal shocks, and is consequent­ly extremely resistant to ageing. Numerous operations demanding extreme patience and skill are required to achieve a uniform, compact and ultra-hard material that can then be machined and hand-finished. This Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar features day, date, month, astronomic­al moon and week of the year. The leap year indication— pioneered by Audemars Piguet in 1955—is also featured on the “Grande Tapisserie” decorated dial.

Other maisons, meanwhile, were seen trying to create much more complicate­d watches. For instance, following up last year’s achievemen­t of the most complicate­d pocket watch ever created, Vacheron Constantin released their most complicate­d wristwatch by far. Named the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotier­s Celestia Astronomic­al Grand Complicati­on 3600, this one-of-a-kind watch is one of the world’s most complicate­d wristwatch­es with 23 mainly astronomic­al complicati­ons. This impressive feat of miniaturiz­ation features a combined display of civil, solar and sidereal times, each with its own gear train. Its new fully integrated caliber is a pinnacle of technical sophistica­tion, featuring a total of 514 components in a case that is 8.7mm thick.

Another demonstrat­ion of technical complicati­on comes in the form of A. Lange & Söhne’s Tourbograp­h Perpetual Pour Le Mérite. The fifth masterpiec­e in A. Lange & Söhne’s “Pour le Mérite” series combines the fuséeand-chain transmissi­on with a tourbillon, a rattrapant­e chronograp­h and a perpetual calendar. The combinatio­n of these five complicati­ons makes the Tourbograp­h Perpetual “Pour le Mérite”a peerless timepiece.

Furthermor­e, SIHH 2017 also saw some favorites making their comebacks. Like Panthère de Cartier, one of the most distinctiv­e Cartier designs, which is as much a watch as it is also a beautiful piece of jewelry. Created in the 1980s and more contempora­ry than ever, it is a true style icon for women who never go unnoticed.

Then there’s the new TimeWalker collection, which recalls the golden era of vintage racing. Minerva, now the Montblanc Manufactur­e, was one of the select few to set the pace with groundbrea­king profession­al chronograp­hs. The chronograp­h, of course, has always been an icon of fair play and sportsmans­hip, fuelling both rivalry and ambition. Minerva’s inspiring timepieces witnessed some of the greatest moments in motorsport history, embodying the racing spirit in an age when legends were still being made. The TimeWalker continues this legacy.

Last but not least, IWC Schaffhaus­en revisits its iconic design from the 1980s and presents the 2017 Da Vinci collection, once again with its classic round case. The Da

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