PUSHING BOUNDARIES
WE JOIN BELL & ROSS IN ITS LATEST JOURNEY TO MALAYSIA, WHERE THE BRAND INAUGURATES A NEW BOUTIQUE AND SHOWCASES ITS “CONCEPTS AND HAUTE HORLOGERIE” EXHIBIT.
What is it that distinguishes a brand? Some would say a rich heritage, others would say innovation and creativity. Still, others would say that distinctive design—having products that are so unique or iconic that they’re instantly recognizable—is the mark of a truly distinguished brand. And in the world of fine watches, a prime example of this highlydesirable quality is Bell & Ross.
Not too long ago, DA MAN joined the French watchmaker in a journey to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, to witness the inauguration of a new boutique and take a deep dive into Bell & Ross’ philosophy of watchmaking through the “Concepts and Haute Horlogerie” exhibition.
“For Bell & Ross, the ongoing and heightened expression of innovation within our brand and product identity serves as a crucial compass guiding our journey into the future. Concepts and Haute Horlogerie will propel us forward, pushing the boundaries of creativity and craftsmanship to define new horizons in the ever-evolving landscape of watchmaking. This commitment to innovation not only preserves our legacy but also ensures that we remain at the forefront of horological excellence, captivating enthusiasts with groundbreaking concepts and exceptional timepieces,” said Carlos Rosillo, CEO and Founder of Bell & Ross, who also came all the way to Kuala Lumpur to preside at the event.
Before we relive the eye-opening experience with Bell & Ross that unfolded throughout the last day of January this year, a brief crash course on the brand’s journey of watchmaking is perhaps in order...
Concepts and Haute Horlogerie
The story of Bell & Ross started in 1992, when two friends, designer Bruno Belamich and businessman Carlos A. Rosillo, decided
to join forces in a watchmaking venture that would “transcended conventional boundaries.”
One interesting—and quite famous— way that Bell & Ross has been pushing the boundaries of creativity is by creating ingenious vehicles, such as the B-Rocket concept bike. But above all else, the name
Bell & Ross has become synonymous with watches inspired by aviation and military instrumentation. And while many watchmakers cite the same influence, it’s safe to say that Bell & Ross is a completely different level, to the point that the brand actually supplies timepieces to the French air force, perhaps most prominently the Escadron de Chasse 2/4 Lafayette. This particular squadron currently operates the Dassault Rafale fighter plane, which has starred in a number of Bell & Ross campaigns.
On a more fundamental level, Bell & Ross timepieces are designed to transcend the ordinary within the domains of concepts and also haute horlogerie— hence the exhibition. “Concept is an abstract representation of an object or an assembly of objects with common characteristics,” Calros Rosillo elaborated.
“At Bell & Ross, concepts are at the source of new ranges to nourish the brand’s DNA. they enable the company to push back the boundaries of innovations and know-how.”
The first concept underlying Bell & Ross’ creations is perhaps the most popular: From cockpit to the wrist, which is manifested in the Flight Instruments collection that are inspired by, well, instruments found in an aircraft’s cockpit. At this point, Rosillo also touched on recognizability. “You instantly recognize the ‘round in a square with four screws’ design. You don’t need to see the logo to tell that it’s a Bell & Ross,” he says. “We have a design that is consistent and different. It doesn’t look to any other watch.”
The second concept is LUM, which highlights the brand’s focus on legibility. The actual LUM line was launched in 2017 and uses Super-LumiNova in a way that draws inspiration from the matte tones of tritium seen in vintage military timepieces.
Earlier in its history, in 2009, Bell & Ross made waves with the introduction of the BR 01 SKULL—which brings us to the third concept. “Among elite military troops, the skull shows courage and strength,” Rosillo points out. “It’s a way for them to express that they are not afraid of death; that they have the courage to confront death.”
And finally, we have Cyber, a concept that channels the angular shape of stealth aircraft. This collection plays with avant-garde graphic elements and futuristic codes.
The other part of the equation, haute horlogerie, is manifested in a series of limitededition masterpieces characterized by the use of exquisite materials and meticulous craftsmanship. A good case in point would be the BR-X1 Skeleton Tourbillon Sapphire. Skeletonized movements and the tourbillon are marks of solid watchmaking savoir-faire, while the use of sapphire in the manufacture of a watch case presents a host of challenges while allowing a unique paradox of solidity and visual transparency.
“We have solid foundation. We take the instrumentation from aircraft cockpits to the wrist as the initials of the brand. It’s what makes you recognize the brand; what makes