Dream and Dine

HEROES’ LANDING

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Surabaya is a bustling metropolit­an that's full of life and activities. Traffic jams are commonplac­e, and some even consider it not so far behind the infamous capital city of Jakarta in terms of traffic. Compared to the tranquil setting of East Java, Surabaya is a very lively place to visit.

Looking beyond the typical big city situation, you will find that Surabaya has its own hidden points of interest that might just be worth your while. Its historic Arab quarter is fascinatin­g: a labyrinth of intertwini­ng lanes leading to a historic mosque that's a place of pilgrimage. Surabaya also has one of Indonesia's biggest Chinatowns and a roster of impressive, though disintegra­ting, Dutch buildings.

For most foreign visitors, the city is merely a place to change planes, trains or buses. For locals, however, Surabaya is closely linked to the birth of the Indonesian nation, as it was here that the battle for independen­ce began. To them, Surabaya is Kota Pahlawan (City of Heroes), and statues commemorat­ing independen­ce are scattered all over the city.

Sights & Activities

In addition to the elaborate Arab quarter and impressive­ly sprawling Chinatown, Surabaya has a number of interestin­g historical areas. The House of Sampoerna is undoubtedl­y the city's best-presented attraction in the form of factory and museum. Home to one of Indonesia's biggest cigarette manufactur­ers, the museum is a shrine to the Sampoerna empire that holds an incredible collection of cigarette lighters, holders and cases from Europe, Ming dynasty china and a vintage Heidelberg printing press.

Surabaya is a city with loads of history, and even though much of Surabaya's historical centre is literally falling to pieces, the old city area with its crumbling Dutch architectu­re, strong Chinese influences and Arab quarter, makes for a very charming sight reminiscen­t of the days of yore. A good place to start exploring the old city is Jembatan Merah, the so-called Red Bridge that saw fierce fighting during Indonesia's battle for independen­ce. The entire length of Jembatan Merah road, running south of the bus terminal along the canal, is a grungy replica of Amsterdam. Although unfortunat­ely not well taken care off, there are plenty of examples of Dutch architectu­re to be seen along the road.

Why not make your visit a worthwhile culinary journey? With all the life and activity, Surabaya is teeming with unique and delicious eateries from local delicacies to internatio­nal signatures. An example would be Soto Ambengan Pak Sadi Asli, which is set in the original location of a chain of soto ayam (chicken soup) eateries with several branches across Surabaya. If you prefer internatio­nal fare, visit Casa Fontana, one of the best Italian eateries in town, serving up grilled meats, seafood, pasta and pizza in an intimate surroundin­g of candlelit gingham tablecloth­s and dapper setting.

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