HERE COMES THE SUN
Go beyond the sun-kissed shores of Bintan Island and discover its wild side in one jam-packed weekend. By Jessica Chan
72 hours in Bintan
It’s not hard to see why Singaporeans are flocking over to Bintan Island on the weekends. Just an hour away by boat, it makes for a fuss-free beach holiday. The resorts that have mushroomed along its coastline are one-stop destinations, be it for a girls’ trip, newlyweds or an annual family get together. There’s everything you’d need at the drop of the hat; a variety of water sports, a much-needed spa day or the delectable Indonesian spread. That, however, barely covers what this tropical paradise has to offer. Here, we explore the oft-overlooked side of Bintan Island, from the quaint fishing villages and local haunts to the hotpots that will have nature buffs weak in the knees. Best of all, three days is all you’ll need.
DAY 1
Catch an early ferry to Bandar Bentan Telani Ferry Terminal and spend a day at Treasure Bay Bintan (Kawasan Pariwisata, Jl. Raja Haji KM 01, Teluk Sebong, Lagoi.
Tel: +62 770 692259). Opt for a seafood lunch set within lush mangrove forests at Kampoeng Kelong Seafood Restaurant
(Jl. Langsat - Sungai Kecil, Lagoi, Bintan Regency. Tel: +62 812 7000 206), which marries Chinese and Indonesian flavours with the island’s daily catch for sumptuous plates of steamed gong gong (conch), grilled mantis shrimps and their signature black pepper crabs. Settle into a table by the lake and you may spot a curious kingfisher hiding among the gnarled mangrove branches.
Continue with Treasure Bay Bintan’s Maximum Adventure Package ($100, with entrance ticket). It includes four activities, starting with a Mangrove Kayaking Tour. Paddle along the coast and enter the mangroves as you’re guided through the region’s myriad wildlife. There’re also offroad trails for UTV and ATV and unlimited
access to their thrilling Slip & Slide.
Make your way to Lamak Basamo (Jl. Gurindam Duabelas, Teluk Sebong Lagoi. Tel: +62 811 779 597) for a hearty nasi padang dinner, served in the traditional Hidang-style. Numerous plates, ranging from the crunchy paru (beef lung) and kari ikan (fish in coconut curry) to tempeh stir-fried in homemade sambal, are laid on the table for your choosing. (Payment is dependent on the plates you choose.) A teh susu (tea with condensed milk) is the
beverage of choice here.
DAY 2
Fill up on the buffet breakfast before a morning of diving (license required) with Max’s Dive Centre (Nirwana Gardens, Sebong Lagoi, Teluk Sebong. Tel: +62 812 7742 9844). The PADI Discover Local Diving (price upon request, includes lunch and dive insurance) offers boat dives at two of four locations. Popular choices are the Senggiling Reef, for its vibrant corals and nudibranchs, and Tanjung Berakit, during April and June, for schools of brightly-coloured Beaked Coralfish and Blue-ringed Angelfish.
Don your boots for a trek through the evergreen rainforest of Gunung Bintan Besar with BRC Tours (IDR 550,000/S$50/ adult and IDR 350,000/child)
(Tel: +62 812 760 3733). Traverse through ancient, overarching trees, some of which are 40 metres tall, for a glimpse of the elusive silvery lutung or sun bird. The peak, at 340 metres above sea level, offers a panoramic view of the Island. Keep an eye out for the famed Princess Pool during your descent. A dip in the cool waters is said to impart good luck.
With your appetite heightened, tuck into Italian fare at the beachfront restaurant, Pizza Casa Italia (Malang Rapat, Gunung Kijang. Tel: +62 812-2832-8711). The charismatic owner, an Italian native, can often be seen shuffling thin-crust pizzas out of his wood-fired stone oven. The dishes, which are tweaked for the local palate, includes jagung (corn) and sarden (sardine).
DAY 3
Start early at Tanjung Pinang Traditional Market and
Wet Markets (Air Raja, East Tanjungpinang, Tanjung Pinang City.). It’s a treasure trove from its produce to locally made handicrafts. The wet market is where you can stock up on kroepoek (deep fried crackers), exotic fruits like the Java Plum as well as bottles of handmade sambal. Keep a lookout for street cards peddling tapai, a Sudanese snack of fermented cassava in teak leaves for breakfast.
Head to Bakso Solo Asli BT.9 (Jl. DI Panjaitan KM.9 No.11, Batu IX, Tanjung Pinang. Tel: +62 812 2700 0222) for pangsit bakso (noodles with meatballs) (IDR20,00) and ayam panggang (grilled chicken) (IDR16,000). The latter is grilled upon order and comes slathered in a thick, sweet sauce that goes swimmingly with the array of sambal. Another highlight is the es jeruk (iced calamansi juice), particularly perfect during the hotter months. The portions are small, which brings you to the next stop, Ayam Presto (Tlk., Bintan Buyu, Tlk. Bintan.
Tel: +62 813 6431 4336) for their signature fried chicken ($2).
Visit the largest community of Orang Laut (sea gypsies) at Panglong Village (Berakit, Teluk Sebong). The rustic charm is matched by the time-honoured traditions of its villagers. Made up of a collection of kelong (an offshore hut built with wood), they can often be seen weaving fishing nets, repairing their boats and preserving fresh catch by sun drying.
On the drive back to the ferry terminal, make a pitstop at Tee Off Restaurant.
Order the nasi lemak and gado-gado with a sprawling view of rolling green hills.