MEMOIRS OF AN ICON
From its origins as an innovative breakthrough to its current standing as an icon of horology, this is the tale of the Patek Philippe Calatrava
PATEK PHILIPPE – the last independent, familyowned Genevan watch manufacture – has quite a few iconic creations. From the Nautilus collection with its distinct porthole construction to the intricate details of the brand’s Grand Complication timepieces, each Patek Philippe watch tells a unique story of heritage, mechanical ingenuity and inspired design.
The Calatrava family, however, is arguably one of the most significant creations by Patek Philippe
– one which marked a decisive milestone in the Genevan watchmaker’s history.
The Calatrava line was initiated by brothers Jean and Charles Stern shortly after they acquired Patek Philippe in 1932 with the now legendary Ref. 96. As testament to how successful this new line was, it essentially allowed the company to weather the Great Depression that lasted well into the late 1930s. It also spoke volumes of Patek Philippe’s innovative spirit. At the time, pocket watches were still the norm, while wristwatches were seen as trinkets worn only by women or tools for soldiers on the field.
Inspired by the Bauhaus movement in art, the Calatrava’s aesthetics had a timeless and understated charm to it that continues to captivate almost 90 years later. The Calatrava also marked the first time that a family of wristwatches was referred to by a name – and it had quite a ring to it, making it more appealing to a wider audience.
Through the years, the Calatrava remains an iconic presence in Patek Philippe’s line-up of timepieces, with each new generation introducing new design elements or mechanical innovation to the family. The Ref. 570 from 1934, for one, was one of the first Patek Phillipe watches in stainless steel. The Ref. 2526 from 1953, meanwhile, was the brand’s first self-winding wristwatch. It featured the 12-600AT movement, which is still considered one of the finest time-only movements in watchmaking history. Then there’s Ref. 3520 with its signature Clous de Paris or hobnail pattern on the bezel, the Ref. 3960 Officer’s watch launched to celebrate Patek Philippe’s 150th anniversary, the Ref. 5196 from 2004 which draws inspiration from the original Ref. 96.
Fast forward to today, and the Calatrava line remains a mainstay within Patek Philippe’s collections. While each individual model offers a unique take on the collection’s archetype, there are two contemporary Calatravas that are definitely worth a closer look today: First is the Ref. 5227J-001 for gents on the lookout for a new watch, and then there’s the stunning Ref. 7200/200R for the ladies.
Watch connoisseurs and long-time fans of Patek Philippe will immediately recognize the Ref. 5227J-001 as being a tribute to the original Calatrava – the Ref. 96. This modern Calatrava comes in a 39mm yellow gold case and features an ivory lacquered dial with gold-applied hour markers. On the other side, the sapphire-crystal case back is protected by an invisibly-hinged dust cover and – when the cover is flipped open – showcases the self-winding Caliber 324 S C mechanical movement ticking inside. The charming Ref. 5227J-001 is then fastened to the wrist with a shiny, chocolate brown alligator leather strap.
The Ref. 7200/200R Ladies’ Calatrava, meanwhile, brings a touch of opulent brilliance to the collection through the light of 142 diamonds arranged using the Flamme setting, which is unique to Patek Philippe. The result is a more delicate, feminine and refined case – which comes in rose gold. The silvery grained dial is appropriately lavish, featuring gold applied Breguet numerals. The royal treatment for the Ref. 7200/200R continues with the strap, made using alligator leather and presented in a shiny royal purple. An additional 26 diamonds adorn the buckle.
While the Ref. 7200/200R’s aesthetic presentation is definitely a cut above the rest, it is still a mechanical marvel as well. Driving this elegant and dainty timepiece is the ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement Caliber 240, which can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back.
The pure lines of the Ref. 5227J-001 and the supreme elegance of the Ref. 7200/200R beautifully showcase the very essence of the round wristwatch and one of the finest symbols of the Patek Philippe style. More than that, they – and the rest of the collection – are set to charm a new generation of watch lovers by their timeless and understated perfection.