Tatler Indonesia

Five Fabulous Food Havens Momozen

In a new section dedicated to all Jakarta’s foodies, Indonesia Tatler has scoured the city and gathered five of the hottest recent openings to try out this month

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Up high on the 46th floor of Plaza Tower, Momozen pampers diners with views of the Jakarta skyline and sumptuous Japanese menus. Truffles are one of the main stars here, from being paired with silky somen served cold, with rice and dashi broth mixed table-side, or with rice and truffle butter stuffed in a grilled baby chicken. The small bites are also headily addictive, from fresh Hokkaido scallops to squid jerky and frogs’ legs.

DOMAINE ZIND-HUMBRECHT PINOT GRIS ALSACE GRAND CRU RANGEN DE THANN CLOS SAINT URBAIN 2015

This is dailed back and dailed in. The purity is superb, with crushed apple, peach, lemon and slate character. Full body, lightly sweet and very fruity but the linear length and focus are impressive. Like tasting freshly picked grapes. Drink now or hold for as long as you like. Energy. Purity. Almost minty finish. From biodynamic­ally grown grapes. 97 points

FAMILLE HUGEL RIESLING ALSACE SCHOELHAMM­ER 2008

A very complex rose petal and herbal riesling that is ridiculous­ly fresh for almost a decade of age. Very muscular and concentrat­ed, but still cool and fresh with enormous mineral depth at the finish. Just coming to its peak, but decades of ageing potential. 96 points

ALBERT MANN PINOT NOIR ALSACE GRAND H 2015

Dark, powerful and ripe with plenty of dry tannins. This wine carries all that rather well and the finish is long and balanced in spite of the massive tannic structure. This has so much that isn’t yet showing properly. Try to be patient, because this will be better from 2019 through to 2030. 97 points

SCHOFFIT GEWURZTRAM­INER ALSACE GRAND CRU RANGEN CLOS SAINT THEOBALD SELECTION DE GRAINS NOBLES 2006

Hold on to your hat. Deep amber colour. Enormous crème brûlée character and enormous power, but there’s also enough acidity to keep it clean. Very long finish with intense caramel, but also cinnamon and allspice notes. Ought to keep for another couple of decades. 97 points

DOMAINE VALENTIN ZUSSLIN RIESLING ALSACE GRAND CRU PFINGSTBER­G VENDANGES TARDIVES 2015

This is quite sweet, but don’t imagine there’s anything simple or superficia­l about this wine at all. In fact, it has great mirabelle fruit, enormous structure and a minerality that just won’t let you go at the very long finish. Better from 2020 when the sweetness is less obvious. Will age for decades. Made from biodynamic grapes. Ecocert-certified.

96 points DOMAINE WEINBACH RIESLING ALSACE GRAND CRU SCHLOSSBER­G VENDANGES TARDIVES 2015

The freshness and concentrat­ion of this superelega­nt riesling literally take your breath away. Diamond-like brilliance and superfine peach, citrus and tropical flower aromas. Some sweetness, though you barely notice it, and at the finish there is stunning mineral freshness. You could drink it now, but in five, 10, 20 and more years it will also be spectacula­r. 97 points

ALBERT MANN PINOT NOIR ALSACE LES SAINTES CLAIRES 2015

If you haven’t realised what Alsace is doing with pinot noir, then this would be a great place to start. Fragrant and refined, with great fruit and very elegant tannins. This is the real thing. The finish is very long and elegant. Beautiful now but will keep for 20 years.

97 points F E TRIMBACH RIESLING ALSACE CLOS SAINTE HUNE 2011

This is really deep and dense with a long, long finish. It’s full-bodied plus has mineral, salt and dried fruits. Very powerful with a super finish that’s generous and sexy. Available in 2018. 95 points

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