Coming of Age
Over his three decades as a wine critic, James Suckling has encountered a number of talented winemakers driving the industry forward. Their innovative experimentation includes trying new ways to age wines, from keeping them in obscure locations, such as m
Niepoort Porto VV Very Old Tawny Port
The base for this blend is a very fine port from 1863, of the highest quality, aged in casks until 1972 and then “bottled” in demijohns. A tawny port with coffee, nuts, chocolate, sultana, toffee and dried lemon rind. Full, very sweet and intense, with so much flavour and depth. Goes on for minutes. Bottled in November 2012. An exceptionally rare edition of this 155-year-old vintage port sealed in a signed 1863 Lalique decanter will be auctioned in Hong Kong on November 3. 100 points
Alois Lageder Chardonnay Alto Adige Löwengang 30 NV
This Italian estate plays music in the cellar during the ageing process. The music is connected to a windmill, which allows nature to decide when the music is played. The nose oozes elegance and panache. Aromas of dried citrus rind, chalk, light stone fruit, clove and spices, vanilla, cream and guava peel. Full body, driving, vibrant acidity, layer upon layer of fruit and an expansive, phenolic and long finish. A blend of 2013, ’14, ’15 Löwengang chardonnay with limited bâtonnage in the first six months. Bottled in May 2017 and released in September 2017. Drink now. 98 points
Seppeltsfield Barossa 100 Year Old Para Tawny
A blend of 12 vintages spanning 1886 to 1970, this one-off blend with an average age of 100 years has been released as a special bottling in 150 crystal decanters crafted by Lalique. The complexity is indescribable and almost incomprehensible. Roasted nuts and very sweet, caramelised, rancio character. Concentrated, raisined fruit. Molasses, sweet old wood, polished leather and a wealth of sweet spices. The palate has deep-reaching, essence-like dried plum, raisin, saffron and a wealth of dark chocolate, then toasted nuts, burnt orange, dark woody notes and concentrated fruit. But the texture is the thing: It sits with purposeful weight and really possesses the palate in a way that no other wine does. Muscular, expansive espresso finish that lingers fresh and captivating. Drink now. 100 points
Château Pontet-canet Pauillac 2015
This Bordeaux estate ages its wines in egg-shaped concrete vessels made with soil from its vineyards. So much floral and dark-fruit character to this wine, with almond and walnut shell. Full body and ultra-fine tannins. Powerful. Classic style with harmony and energy. Goes on for minutes. A superb wine with great fruit. Try in 2025. 98 points