DINING AND DRINKING
SIGNATURE ROOM AT THE 95TH
Pay US$20 to access the 94th-floor observation deck of the John Hancock Centre – or skip the queue and spend it in the Signature Room restaurant (pictured above) one floor up, or the Signature Lounge on the 96th. The views are sensational – book a window table in advance – and the contemporary American food is flavoursome and generous. Open 11am-2.30pm, 5pm-10pm (11pm Fri/Sat, from 10am Sat/Sun). 875 North Michigan Avenue; tel +1 312 787 9596; signatureroom.com
CINDY’S
In a prime spot facing Millennium Park, Cindy’s is the lively rooftop bar and restaurant of the Chicago Athletic Association hotel, a luxury conversion of a historic gentleman’s club that opened last year. Located on the 13th floor, its outdoor terrace is a great place to sip one of the expertly mixed cocktails (pictured right) in warmer weather. Weekdays 11am-2pm, 4pm-2am; weekends 10am-3pm, 4pm-3am (Sun 12am). 12 South Michigan Avenue; tel +1 312 792 3502; cindysrooftop.com
THE GAGE
A few doors down from Cindy’s and well placed for the Art Institute of Chicago, this smart restaurant and bar is popular with the after-work crowd and also serves a superb weekend brunch – the BLT with over-easy egg, provolone and basil-tarragon aioli (US$12) will keep you fed for the day, while the Bloody Mary (US$12), complete with a garnish of corned beef and Irish cheddar, is a meal in itself. Open 11am-2am (until 12am Mon, 10am-3am Sat, 10am-12am Sun). 24 South Michigan Avenue; tel +1 312 372 4243; thegagechicago.com
RPM ITALIAN
A glamorous, buzzing restaurant in the River North district serving high-end Italian cuisine. People-watch over a bellini at the bar (pictured above right) before enjoying deliciously creamy burrata (US$15) and richly flavoured pappardelle Bolognese with short rib ragu (US$14). Sister venue RPM Steak is located two blocks south on West Kinzie Street. Open 4pm-12am (11pm Mon, 12.30am Fri, 3pm-12.30am Sat, 12pm-11pm Sun). 52 West Illinois Street; tel +1 312 222 1888; rpmrestaurants.com
BAVETTE’S
This elegant French-inspired steakhouse has an atmospheric, jazzy ambience and is located in River North. The cuts of meat (from US$39) are superb, and perfectly cooked – accompany with decadent sides such as creamed spinach with blue cheese and caramelised onions, and charred brussels sprouts with Dijon mustard and parmesan (US$12). The Old Fashioned cocktails are good, too. Open 5pm-11.30pm (12.30am Fri-Sat, 10.30pm Sun). 218 West Kinzie St; tel +1 312 624 8154; bavetteschicago.com
GREEN RIVER
Located in Streeterville, just north of the Chicago River, this upmarket 18th-floor restaurant and bar opened last year. The cocktails, inspired by the city’s Irish heritage, are creative and well crafted, the seasonal American cuisine is impressive, and the staff are passionate and knowledgeable. Take a seat on the outdoor terrace (pictured below) for lake and skyline views. Open 11.30am-10pm (11pm Thurs/Fri; 11am-3pm, 5pm-11pm Sat; 11am3pm Sun). 259 East Erie Street; tel +1 312 337 0101; greenriverchi.com
HOME RUN
Still, if the weather is with you, you don’t want to be indoors all day. A stroll, jog or cycle along the Lakefront Trail, which hugs the shoreline for almost 30km, is a must. We spent a glorious Saturday afternoon wandering Navy Pier, where a covers band played Prince classics, before heading northwards past the packed city beaches, taking in the sparkling calm of Lake Michigan and the skyline view back to Downtown.
Ducking into Lincoln Park, we stumbled into a dog show being held by the residents of the Gold Coast – the city’s most gentile neighbourhood, which backs on to this part of the lake. They can’t have been too impressed back in 1959, when one of the grand houses that line its peaceful streets was acquired by Hugh Hefner for his first Playboy Mansion.
Hefner and his Bunnies moved on in 1974, but there is always a party to be found somewhere in the city – and if it’s match day, it’s at Wrigley Field. If the Chicago Cubs are playing while you are in town, do go – even if you know nothing about baseball, it’s tremendous fun. The fans are unstintingly passionate, even though the Cubs haven’t won the World Series for more than a century, and the stadium – one of the oldest major league grounds in the US – is fantastically atmospheric. Grab a Goose Island beer, try to keep the hotdog mustard off your shirt, and pretend you know the words to Take Me Out to the Ball Game – you could almost pass for a local.
United flies from London Heathrow to Chicago three-times daily. united.com
Baseball tickets were provided by the Chicago Cubs. chicago.cubs.mlb.com