GO WITH THE FLOW
How Seoul’s revitalised “Stream” has brought benefits to the city
Seoul’s recent history has been marked by rapid modernisation, an eager acceptance of technological advances and urban growth on an impressive scale. Many of its most high-profile developments can be found south of the Hangang (Han River). The 123-storey Lotte World Tower is close to completion – at 555 metres, it is the tallest building in South Korea. There are also expansion plans for the COEX district, where Hyundai has purchased a huge plot of land opposite the convention and shopping centre, with plans to build hotels, as well as more event and retail space.
In the CBD, located within the historic city walls north of the Han, plenty of growth is happening, too, albeit in a less grandiose fashion. By using a relatively recent addition to the city’s impressive collection of parks, it’s possible to bisect the busy, skyscraper-filled downtown area and get a sense of Seoul’s broad appeal.
HUMBLE BEGINNINGS
In South Korea’s pre-industrial era, when Seoul was a fraction of its current size, a stream meandered through its centre, used by wives to wash clothes. Its name was Cheonggyecheon – today, it is referred to simply as“the Stream”. After the Korean War, which ended in 1953, things changed – the Stream became lined with shanty towns and increasingly polluted and dirty. In 1958 a road was built over it, followed by an elevated freeway in 1976. The Stream was forgotten in the rush towards an industrialised future, and the whole area became something of an eyesore.
At the turn of the millennium, Lee Myung-bak, whose construction company had built the freeway, made restoring the Stream a major part of his campaign to become city mayor (he gained office in 2002 and went on to become the country’s president in 2008). In 2003, as mayor, he gave the green light for the US$360 million reclamation project to begin – the freeway was demolished and pumping stations were installed to bring 30 million gallons of water from the Han, ensuring a regular flow that the Stream had never had.
Cheonggyecheon reopened in 2005 as a linear parkway that stretches from Cheonggye Plaza all the way through central Seoul to Dongdaemun and beyond. Set below street level, more than 20 bridges span its length; its paths and walls are concrete or stone, although trees have been planted in many stretches. The initial reaction was mixed, but worries about traffic were addressed by extensive rerouting schemes, bus lanes and public transport improvements. When it became clear that the revitalisation project had improved air pollution, boosted biodiversity and helped to cool the CBD in summer, everyone was won over.
However, just as important as the Stream’s aesthetic beauty is the fact that it has been a catalyst for economic development in the CBD. Construction of high-rise buildings is forging ahead in the blocks flanking the western section of the Stream – and many of the office workers who fill these buildings like nothing better than to take their lunch down to the Stream and relax for a while, watching and listening to the babbling water as it flows eastwards. REGAL HISTORY I traced the Stream’s first 4km as far as Dongdaemun, with occasional forays north and south into the surrounding districts (the Stream itself continues on after Dongdaemun, curving around to the south and eventually flowing into the Han River).
I started at Cheonggye Plaza, a modest square that backs on to the broad south-north boulevard from Seoul Plaza up to Gwanghwamun Square and Gyeongbokgung Palace – built in 1395, this was the main home of the Joseon dynastic rulers and arguably Seoul’s most impressive palace. Down this wide road, great processions of courtiers and soldiers would accompany the king to or from the South Gate; today it leads down to City Hall, Seoul Plaza and some of the city’s top hotels.
In the square stands a spiralling statue that could be a seashell or a unicorn’s horn. Above it rises the rectangular block of the Seoul Finance Centre. The Stream begins in style, with a three-metre waterfall that is backlit in various colours at night. A wishing well close to the first bridge tempts visitors to toss coins – all for a good cause, as the money is given to charity. Although primarily a concrete park, as you progress eastwards, trees line both sides of the water, with thin trunks and drooping branches, while farther on, cherry trees blossom in spring.
The second bridge, Gwangtonggyo, uses great granite blocks, Stonehenge-style, some with ancient carvings of clouds and Buddhist symbols. After that comes Gwanggyo bridge, across which a busy road carries lines of traffic. Turn left and one block north is a large crossroads with two examples of both historical and modern Korean architecture. Bosingak is a beautiful bell pavilion, first constructed in 1396 but rebuilt many times since, whose bell was used to signal the opening and closing of Seoul’s four great gates; while across the road rises Jongno Tower, a glass and steel edifice topped by a “floating” oval structure. One of the most distinctive modern buildings in Seoul, it is owned by Samsung.
Turn south from Gwanggyo and you are quickly engulfed in the shopping mania that is Myeongdong, the retail district. The warren of small streets is
The Stream begins in style with a three-metre waterfall that is backlit in various colours at night
packed with brand outlets and souvenir stalls, and cars can struggle to get through the crowds.
Back in the peaceful environment of Cheonggyecheon, a display of local students’ artwork lines the wall under a bridge. Between the bridges, stepping stones cross the Stream – a popular spot for photos – and dozens of small rapids provide a restful soundtrack that cannot completely drown out the sound of the busy city above, but allows a sense of detachment from that world.
A tiled mural on the left bank shows King Jeongjo – the 22nd monarch of the Joseon dynasty – travelling in procession with his mother to Hwaseong (modern-day Suwon) to the tomb of his father in 1795. The mural was donated by Shinhan Bank, the head office of which is nearby. Established in 1897 as the Hanseong Bank, it led the financial modernisation of Korea. North of this section is Insadong, Seoul’s arts and crafts district, where traditional restaurants and teahouses share the alleyways with art galleries and souvenir stalls.
Samilgyo is the beginning of the end of the CBD’s skyscrapers; from here to Dongdaemun, the Stream is flanked by low-rise buildings. In the crystal-clear water, carp and other fish swim, preyed upon by herons. Then you will pass the labyrinthine covered markets of Gwangjang and Dongdaemun, where stalls sell household items, foodstuffs and trinkets.
I finished my walk at Dongdaemun; on the left is the JW Marriott Dongdaemun Square, opened in early 2014, a relatively small (170 rooms) but attractive hotel right by the Stream. Turn left and Heunginjimun Gate looms ahead, but turn right and a monument to the modern world stands even taller. This is Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP), a curving, spaceship-like construction designed by the late Zaha Hadid. It opened two years ago, a mix of conference halls, design shops, a museum and culture park. The surrounding area is Seoul’s fashion district. The land next to DDP is now owned by Seoul City, which plans to develop it with more hotels and retail space. STYLISH STAYS Some of the city’s best-known hotels, including the Lotte, the Westin Chosun, the Koreana and the Plaza Seoul – which in January became a member of Marriott’s Autograph Collection – can be found around City Hall and the boulevard up to Gwanghwamun Square. However, the launch of the new-build, 317-room Four Seasons just over the road from Cheonggye Plaza in October 2015 has shaken up the luxury market and given new impetus to this part of the city. Facilities include a range of five restaurants encompassing Korean, Chinese and international food, two bars, a spa and a sauna. In Gangnam, the Palace Hotel became a Sheraton in August.
Most of downtown’s new properties are in the “business premium” sector. A good example is the 383-room Shilla Stay Gwanghwamun, which opened in December 2015 just north of Cheonggyecheon. A new brand for the Shilla group, it is one of five now in Seoul and is trendy and minimalist in style.
Another new hotel brand by a Korean hotel giant, focusing on millennials, is Lotte L7, located in Myeongdong (as is the Lotte City Hotel). It boasts an eye-catching mural on its façade, cool grey tones similar to the Shilla Stay’s, and funky wall collages. The hotel also offers cycle-rickshaw rides on three routes around the city centre, one of which includes the Stream. Starwood will open the 223-room Aloft Seoul Myeongdong in February.
Dozens of small rapids provide a restful soundtrack that allows a sense of detachment from the city