New London restaurants

The Intercontinental London Park Lane’s latest fine-dining restaurant is run by Martha Ortiz, best-known for her restaurant Dulce Patria in Mexico City. The understated design, by David Collins Studio, makes the most of a long, unprepossessing space with its entrance on the corner of Park Lane and Piccadilly.

The à la carte menu is short – with about eight starters and nine main courses. Appetisers include a velvety black bean soup with pork skin, foie gras and mezcal, as well as pickled salmon tostada. Mains range from black cod with potato and chilli – the fish moist and tasty, served with a fresh cactus salad – to delicious Michoacan-style fatty pork carnitas and salsa.

Churros, for dessert, didn’t quite have the wow of the rest of the food, although the caramels and chocolates to accompany coffee were delicious. The wine list has a strong Latin American focus, while the service is friendly and knowledgeable.

VERDICT Excellent – from the intriguing interior design to the choice of drinks and the newlyimagined Mexican food. Tom Otley