Aster

The saddle of venison was cooked perfectly pink, the sharpness of the cabbage going beautifully with the gamey meat

The new Nova shopping mall next to Victoria station has mainly budget or midmarket places to eat, so this Nordic-French restaurant stands out. On the entrance level is the deli, café and cocktail bar, while the restaurant and champagne bar are on the floor above. There are also two private dining rooms for eight and 16 people.

To start, I had the spiced wood pigeon with beetroot crème fraîche and smoked almonds, but I was told the pigeon was not available so would be substituted with quail. It was fine, although probably the least inspiring dish I tried that evening.

My main of saddle of venison, pickled red cabbage and juniper blackberry sauce was cooked perfectly pink, the sharpness of the cabbage going beautifully with the gamey meat and sweet sauce.

The raspberry mousse, hazelnut cake, poached rhubarb and sorbet was fantastic, as was the coconut panna cotta, basil shortbread and lingonberries – just the right amount of wobble, and lightas-a-feather biscuit. The service was attentive without being overbearing.

VERDICT A standout addition to the burgeoning Victoria food scene, with interesting flavours and excellent service. Make sure you leave room for dessert.