4HOURS IN... ASTANA

Astana became the capital of Kazakhstan in 1997, a planned modern city to replace the old capital of Almaty. And it’s a showcase for central Asia’s ambitions

A whistle-stop tour of the Kazakh capital

1 Khan Shatyr

Begin your exploration at the northwestern end of the two-kilometre-long zone of buildings that houses the Kazakhstani government and major business institutions. In a young city filled with impressive architectural edifices, the Khan Shatyr is perhaps the most striking. A tent-shaped cone 150 metres tall, this enormous shopping and recreation centre was designed by Norman Foster’s architectural firm, Foster and Partners, and uses a transparent plastic compound that absorbs the sunlight and protects from the steppe winds, keeping the interior temperate throughout freezing winters and boiling summers. Three floors of designer shops, cafés and food outlets follow a mall pattern, but on the uppermost floor is a leisure park where you can lounge under palm trees on a sand beach beside a lagoon pool. Open 10am-11pm.

khanshatyr.com/en

2 Bayterek tower

From Khan Shatyr, walk towards and through the arch of the Kazmunaigaz building and, after about ten minutes, you’ll see the 97-metre-tall structure of the Bayterek tower, its slender, white trunk topped by a huge metallic-sheened ball. This symbolises the golden egg of the mythical phoenix-like Samruk bird, laid at the top of the Tree of Life, which was impossible for humans to reach. An elevator whisks visitors up into the sphere, through whose gold-tinted glass a 360-degree panorama of the city can be viewed. Look south-east and you’ll see the marbled splendour of the blue-domed Presidential Palace. On the very top level of the orb is a handprint belonging to President Nazarbayev, in which visitors can place their own palms. Open 10am-9pm OctoberMarch; entrance 700 tenge (£1.60).

astana-bayterek.kz

3 Palace of Peace and Reconciliation

Behind the Presidential Palace but on the far side of the Esil River is the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation. Just a five-minute taxi ride from the Bayterek tower, this attractive glass pyramid is another Foster and Partners creation, built on top of a small green hill to be a meeting place for the leading representatives of the world’s main religions (Islam, Christianity, Buddhism, Judaism, Hinduism, Daoism and others), who gather for summits to promote interreligious understanding and peace. Inside the 62-metre pyramid are an ethnocultural centre, archaeological exhibitions, art galleries and a 1,300-seat concert hall. Tours are available in English, Russian and Kazakh. 57 Tauelsizdik Avenue. Open daily 10am-6pm; entrance 600 tenge (£1.40).

astana-piramida.kz/en

4 Capital Circus

Catch a taxi (ten minutes, approx 1,000 tenge/£2.30) back over the river to Kabanbay Batyr Avenue, between the new and old parts of the city. Constructed to look like a giant flying saucer, the Capital Circus boasts a 13-metre-diameter central performance ring surrounded by seating for 2,000, and is home to a 300-strong circus troupe – circus performances are a popular draw in this ex-Soviet nation, where Russian cultural influences are still strong. Although this building is barely more than a decade old, the traditions are informed by the old Almaty Circus. The Circus also plays host to touring international companies, from high-flying trapeze artists and horse-riding teams to acrobats, clowns, illusionists and animal acts. 5 Kabanbay Batyr Avenue. Show prices range from 1,000 to 5,000 tenge (£2.30-£11.40).

circus-astana.kz

5 Central Park and Esil River

Beginning immediately north of the small park surrounding the Circus, Astana’s Central Park occupies the wedge of land created by a 90-degree bend in the Esil River. It’s a popular destination for the city’s residents, offering peace, shade and shelter from the dustiness of the city streets. Wandering through its many paths you’ll find cafés, carnival rides, ponds, an aqua park and many nooks and crannies where people relax and picnic under the trees. Cross the pedestrian bridge close to the apex of the river bend, turn right and stroll down the bank of the Esil, past the grand statue of Kazakh hero Kenesary Khan. Facing the park on this side is restaurant Astana Nury, which serves excellent traditional Kazakh and Georgian cuisine in attractive Central Asian-style booths with curtains for privacy – or, if the weather is fine, sit out on the open terrace for great river views. Be sure to sample some Kazakh shashlik (kebab) from the extensive menu, with Georgian khachapuri (cheese bread) as an accompaniment. 3/2 Respublika Avenue. Open noon until the last guest leaves (around 3am).

a-n.kz/eng/o_restorane