Duddell’s

Duddell’s is the creation of restaurateur Yenn Wong. Her Hong Kong original of the same name holds two Michelin stars, and is smart but pricey – much like this London Bridge branch inside the beautifully refurbished St Thomas’ Church.

There’s a full menu with dishes such as lobster noodle and plenty of expensive ingredients, including XO sauce, truffles or wagyu beef; but we visited for the full dim sum selection at lunch.

The Duddell’s fish and prawn dumpling is a variation on har gau, the classic shrimp dumpling steamed in a wrapper. The wrappers were deftly made and translucent, the filling correctly resistant to the bite. Crispy char siu bun was a highlight – the roast pork filling flavour-packed and intensely savoury. Poached chicken dumpling was our favourite dish, with an impeccable spicy stock. Slithery yet firm, these dim sum exemplified the mastery of texture that Chinese chefs have.

VERDICT This is a great venue for corporate entertaining near the City, with discrete space between tables and well-executed dishes that won’t frighten the guests. Guy Dimond

HOURS

Mon-Sat 12-3pm, 6-11.15pm; Sun 12-3pm, 6-10.15pm

PRICE

Dim sum £7-9 per plate (three pieces). Three-course dinner for two with wine around £130

CONTACT

9A St Thomas St, SE1 9RY; +44 (0)20 3957 9932; duddells.co